The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 292 engine head pre-assembly questions

Next major step in the project is to assemble the head to the short block. But I have a couple minor things to do before that takes place (lifters, pushrods, etc.). The bottom end is complete (oil pan, timing cover, water pump, etc.). I've cleaned the cylinder bores with auto tranny fluid and thoroughly wiped the block deck down with mineral spirits. FelPro gaskets will be installed throughout. Now the questions.

1. What "break in" oil do you guys recommend? This is the oil that I want to soak the lifters in before I install.

2. The cylinder head was rebuilt about eight months ago and has been sitting (covered) in my garage. Is there anything I need to lube or maybe have checked out before I bolt it down?

3. I'm considering water heating the Offenhauser 4 barrel manifold I'm using. This would be a great time to go ahead and plan that part. I'd like to use water to heat the intake, since I'm running Dynomax tube headers. Where should I tap into the system for water?

Anything else you guys can add that I may have left out would be greatly appreciated. All advice welcome.

-ftyler

put the head on before the pushrods .
I used SAE 10w30 as running in oil ,, seemed to work just fine ,, others will have other ideas .
squirt some oil around the valve stems , and plenty along the rockers after they are installed .
Remember ,, " Cleanliness is next to Godliness " when rebuilding your engine.

Dusty thanks for the tips. Couple more questions: What did you use to clean your block deck? What brand of SAE 30 did you use? And is it alright to coat the rockers with "moly grease" or Vaseline or some other thick petroleum-based lubricant rather than oil?

How long will it be till you start the engine after it's assembled? If it's going to be awhile use a white lithium grease on the ends of the pushrod, the rocker arm piviot balls and valve stem ends. If the engine sets for a while the assembly oil can run off and to the pan. As for the block deck and head surface, wipe with a clean towel and laquer thinner or brake clean. Don't get it in the cylinders. The brand oil doesn't matter to much, use what ever brand you like. It will only be in for a few hours or miles. It needs to run long enough to pick up all the assembly grease and oil.

Remember to oil the head bolts before you torque them. Dip each one in oil and let excess drain off. Apply oil to the head surface where the bolt heads will set. Don't get to much oil in the thread holes, you can break a block! The extra oil acts like hydralic fluid and the bolt is the piston. Joe

Any more takers on this?

I used SHELL oil . Note it was 10w30 not straight 30 grade .
Keep the vaseline for your chapped lips , it is NOT an engine lubricant.
Your local engine shop ought to have some cam assembly lube you can use for the base of the lifters.
What did you prelube the bearings with ?

I did pick up some engine assembly lube from a local Advance Auto Parts store. That's what I plan on coating the base of the lifters with after I presoak them in the 30 weight oil. Is that stuff sufficient for the rockers arms as well?

I bought the short block pre-assembled. I had to replace a couple of main cap bolts and I relubed the cap surface with Vaseline (didn't have any pre-assembly lube at the time).

Thanks for your help Dusty. Now I'm pondering going with the mild cam. Then everything will have to come apart again. I think the performance increaase would be noticeable but I'm not sure if I want the hassle. Especially this being my first engine assembly.

-ftyler

I would not presoak the lifters. This could cause the lifters to act as a “solid” and prevent obtaining proper preload. What is very necessary is the priming of the entire engine’s oil system before starting up. This is done by turning the oil pump with a drill motor to force oil throughout the entire engine. I don't think it matters what kind of oil is used for start-up - any good 30 or 10W30 will be OK- and a new filter, of coarse. After the initial break in (30-40 minutes above 1500 rpm), replace the oil and filter with whatever kind your going to run on a regular basis. Any good prelube on the cam lobes, bottom of lifters, rod and main bearings will be fine.