The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Peel & Stick Question

My 56 TF cab is loud! Exhaust noise and vibration for the most part" The exhaust system stops just forward of the rear axle under the bed and turns down. I went by Home Depot yesterday and bought a couple of rolls of "Peel & Stick" sold under the name of "Quick Roof". I do not have any of the original firewall pad left in the truck. It was pretty much gone when I got it and I removed the rest. My question is, should I use the peel & stick to replace the firewall pad? Where else should I use it? Along the back of the cab wall, in the doors, under the floor mat and under the seats? Would I be better off to get the exhaust exit rearward? I'm running a 350 SBC with 2 1/2" exhausts through Flowmasters. The engine noise really isn't all that loud outside the truck, but holding a conversation inside the cab is a real effort.

Clint
I haven't used the peel and stick although I have some. I was going to use on the inside of my doors. It's suppose to take away some of the tinnie sound. I did use Reflectex on the inside of the cab and plan to cover floor with Peel and Seal then carpet padding/carpet. Extending exhaust to rear of truck should quiet down also. I believe some suppliers sell a jute firewall mat with a rubber backing also. Have fun and good luck.
Dan

Peel & Stick works great. I used it everythwere including the firewall and then put an original pad over that. The biggest improvement was when I installed it on the inside of the doors.

my.02
not on the floors as it may trap water and cause rotting
do a search on the subject.

'''My question is, should I use the peel & stick to replace the firewall pad?
no, you'll regreat it if you need access back to the firewall
Where else should I use it? Along the back of the cab wall, in the doors,
yes
under the floor mat and under the seats?
no
Would I be better off to get the exhaust exit rearward? ''''
yes

I use DYNAMAT on the doors, roof and back panel. i use a jute material and two sided foil backed padding on the floor and under the seat compartment.
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=001_1.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00492_0008.jpg

i think they work great on the inside of my garage roll-up doors

Been reading alot of good reviews for this product.
www.lizardskin.com
I agree that the peel and stick stuff can cause problems; plus it is heavy. And the factory mats and pads seem to cause problems over the longer periods. My most recent truck a 1992 model has floor rot from dirt and moisture under the mat; and the same for all the older ones i have also.
Maybe a bed liner product on the floor then the factory mat.
I still have not worked out if i could lizard skin then bed liner. Looks like one or the other to me so far.

Clint ,
You will really like the effect of runnin your exhaust all the way out to the rear ..
1. it will sound better (to the outside world)
2. it will reduce the sound you are getting
3. and ya will be able to carry on a conversation in the cab

just some thoughts from someone who been there with the exhaust exitin in front of the rear wheels

Clint, regarding the exhaust I agree that running them to the rear is best. I know Flowmasters are very popular, but I have a 1963 Impala 327 with 2 1/2 inch Flowmasters and I belive the noise in the car is louder then outside. I am going to change them but I'm not sure what to try.
Cleon

The peel-n-seal product, among many other similar products are used effectively on the floorboards, without problems. Prior to installing, all seams should be sealed properly with a good, quality seam sealer/seam caulk, as done at the factory.

Moisture enters from the outside, through improperly sealed seams or openings in the floor boards, kick panels, rockers, cab corners, etc. If the cab is watertight, including the doors, glass and windshield, water will not enter the cab of the vehicle, therefore, not reside/seep under the carpet, padding or self-adhesive matting.

If this product is installed properly and all seams bridged with foil tape, water will not permeate under it. As a good maintenance program, the carpet should be pulled back routinely, to ensure there is no moisture wicking into the cab, via breaches in the floor boards, kick panels, rockers, doors, windows or cab corners, as well as, being good housekeeping.

''if''

"If" the oil pan drain plug is put in properly, the engine will have oil, "if" not...

The '60-'66 Chevy trucks had a tar-based mat installed in the cab under the factory rubber floor mat. Some have lasted for over 40 years, some have not.

Most of our trucks are and will be treated better over the next 40 years than they were treated the first 40 years.

I had Purple Hornies (small header exhausts) installed on my 69 and they were extremely loud outside and especially inside the cab. After driving short distances for months I began getting really tired and got tested at my doctors and at the emergency room. I had an above average level of Carbon Monoxide in my blood, which isn't a big deal but got Tinnitus severely from the noise. Not saying Carbon Monoxide poisoning isn't a big deal but I only drive about a mile each way to work/home. If I was driving 30 miles I would have had elevated CO blood levels which cause major problems to the nervous system.

Get the pipes to run past the cab and face them out or all the way to the rear like I did in the 69. A local Meineke ran the straight pipes to the rear with five welded support brackets (rubber mount) for 260 bux. Cheaper than a full exhaust kit and no more noise/toxins in the cab.