The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop water heat question

Currently installing heat plate and Fentons on the 235 in my '55 rat rod. As the engine coolant is basically in a closed system, why couldn't you run one line from the Langdon fitting plate behind the thermostat housing and the other line from a fitting at the rear of the head or block on the driver's side of the engine? Wouldn't this accomplish the same thing (heated water supplied to the heat plate) except not as quickly?

I dunno. Try it. The port in the rear you are talking about, if that's on the head, that is where the temp sensor goes.

Is there some reason you couldn't use the stock ports in the front???

Arch,

Are you referring to the hole in the rear of the block for the stop-cock/drain?

I second Hot Rod Dad's question (I guess your method looks simpler/easier)?

Tim

Yes, guys, those are my two choices--temp sensor port and stop cock drain plug fitting. Unless I'm missing something, when using the Langdon fitting plate, there appears to be only one extra outlet available at the front of the engine.

On the 261 in my '56 I ran the rear water heat line to the two brass temp sensor blocks at the rear of the head. (I have two because I have a functional gauge on the dash and one below the dash in a little gauge cluster.) I used brass blocks with double inlets so I had the depth necessary for each sensor, realizing that because both gauges are outside the head, they would always read a little on the cool side. That's why I'm wondering about using the stop cock drain plug as my return access. It would be a lot cleaner (and easier) installation. As I plan to use hoses, I don't like the look of running a hose completely around the back or front of the engine with a "T" on one of the heater hoses.

Two things to consider here.
1. Another heater hose loop is another potential coolant leak.
2. There is no heat to your manifold with water heat when the engine is cold... when you need manifold heat most.

I'm sure there must be some, but water heated intakes are hard to find on production vehicles.

I'm still weighing my options.

I used Tom's heat plate behind the thermostat housing, installed the plate under the manifold and then back to the other side of the water pump. Should be some pics on the engine rebuild album on the webshots link below. Hope it may help.

My Datsun 240Z uses a water heated intake. It's kinda cold blooded, but once it warms up it runs great. On the other side of that coin the 235 in my truck uses the exhaust heated intake and it can be completely un-choked after about 2 minutes. Each has it's own personality, different vehicles. The carb's would never get warm in the 2 miles I run to the dump on the Z, but the truck's perfectly happy.

Devin

yes
my 292 has a hard line (using steel brake line & compression fittings) from the thermostst housing to my clifford and the second line to the base of the #6 cylinder (drain)

So if it works running a line to the ball-cock plug--or as I did on my '56, the temp gauge port--why would the instructions that came with the Langdon plate say you should run the line all the way around the engine to a "T" in a heater hose?????

There's always more than one way to do something and they are usually all correct if they work. You are just trying to get hot water flowing through your intake, however works best for you.

Check this out. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/49436/Number/357778#Post357778

Thanks for all the responses. Will use the ball-cock fitting like Jim & Caroline did on Lucinda and hope for the best. Engine compartment painting and detailing almost completed so hope to get it back in running condition soon.