The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1937 steering

I have been working on the original steering box on my '37. I bought a NOS sector and replaced a bushing or two. The truck drove great before, just had to much play in the straight ahead position. The new sector took care of that. The real problem is the box is not centered when going straight ahead. I check everything I can think of, even went up to Jim Carters and looked at some replacement parts. I figured the drag-link was wrong, but it was just like the new one. My axle and spindles are from a newer truck, '37 king pins were to small when I needed to replace them, Carters sold me pins for '41-'55 truck that worked just fine.

I am starting to wonder if the steering arm is bent or different some how. My parts book list them for '37 -'46 all COMM. Not sure about the newer truck though.

It seems like the drag link is to long, the box is 1/4 to 1/3 off center.....

Could the axle be drilled different then a '37 causing it to back just a bit?

Anyone have any idea? Joe

Joe,

I might not understand the whole problem. Is the NOS sector keyed for the pitman arm, and is it keyed in the same place as the old one? You have probably already checked this out!!

Stuart

Joe -
First of all, if the 37 replacement king pins were too small, that makes me think you might have a 41-54.5 front axle under the truck. I say that because the king pins in those axles are larger than the 37 king pin.
Next, if this is the case, and you can tell by the casting number, you won't get the box to center up. In fact, I tried to center my 37 box up with the original front axle and never could. I have no idea why. I ran into the same thing with the 41-54.5 axle. When I did, I thought I had better put the 37 axle back under the truck and try something else. That's when I realized the 41-54.5 front axle is a larger, better, more heavy weight (beefier) axle, so I just kept it under the truck. I finally made an adjustable drag link. By using the adjustable drag link, I can center my box up perfectly. I tried a 54 car drag link, which is adjustable, but it was too short so I made a drag link for my truck. I used two tie rod ends and cut down an old tie rod. The same tie rods were used from at least 36.5 through 54.5, so they are easy to pick up at wrecking yards. I cut it close to the length I would need and rethreaded the right hand thread end. I was able to adjust it exactly where I wanted it by setting the wheels straight, blocking them and turning the tie rod, which adjusted the steering box where everything was dead on straight. It worked out great! You can even adjust it out for the crown in the road!
Hope this helps you out!

Joe :crazy:

Joe, I checked the casting number on the axle and it is a new axle just as I thought. I have been studying the drag-link and like the idea of adjusting it. I am still using the ball and sockets so I might have to find a left hand die and use a tie-rod threaded sleeve. If the diameter of the old link will take threads, it should be a piece of cake to make it work. Your idea of using tie-rods would save me from a left hand threaded die so I may look in to that. I will see if Jim Carters has one laying around I can get cheap.

I wonder if they are all like this? The way they made the rear tires off set in the rear fenders, the front being off a bit wouldn't surprise me one bit. Joe

In 1937 there is a difference in the "Commerical" (1/2 ton parts) and the "Truck" (1.5 ton). 1/2 tons use many of the same parts as the cars (small diameter King pins for example) the 1.5 ton use heavier axle, knuckles, king pins etc. 1/2 ton's use all same parts up to at least 1940. The same goes for 1.5 tons. The later 37 model year Chevrolet came out with a 3/4 and 1 ton models and these use the 1/2 ton parts. Steering parts between 1/2 ton (commerical) and the Truck parts don't mix. Make sure you have all one or all the other. Most all the reproduction truck part made are for the Commerical series 1/2 tons. Chevrolet has always used the Commerical model to define the small trucks and Truc for the 1.5 ton and bigger.

Joe -
Rebuilding the front end as I described above using modern style tie rod ends on the tie rod and the draglink tightens up the front end so much, you will think you are driving a totally different vehicle. Another thing that helped the road handling a bunch was the addition of radial tires. I never have any more shimmy and the steering is b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l! It's the second best thing I've ever done to my truck!

Joe :crazy:

35trucker, thanks for the information. Problem is, I can't identify most of the parts, there are no numbers on them so I am working with what I have. What I do know is, the whole axle/ steering was swapped out some time be for 1969, thats when it was parked behind a barn. I can't change it out now due to cost, it has new pins and bushings and disk brakes. The first set of brakes wouldn't fit the spindle, had to get bigger bearings and different spacers. I like that its all heavier then stock anyway.
I am now thinking about the modern tie-rods and converting over to them. What is involved? Where do you get the taper reamer? Joe

Tapered reamers try www.use-enco.com.

Hey Joe and Joe, On the radials, is there a modern tie rod end that won't dig into the side of the radial. Would be nice to find a bolt-on end vs welding up something.
Thanks
Jim

I've been looking around and think I might go with Heim joints and adjustable tubing. I can unbolt the balls out of the arms and bolt the heim joint right in place. Since its a short 12" drag link, I don't think there will be that much drag on the joints. I can get good quality chrome-moly joints for $12.99. They would surely hold up with a little lube every now and then. What do you think? Joe

Jim -
I decided I had three choices on the pitman arm hitting the back of the left tire going into a left turn. 1. Change out the tires to narrow old 4 ply tires. Consideration: Never! 2. Put spacers behind the wheel, on the hub, to move the tires out. This would mean longer wheel studs and probably taper bearings, because the roller bearings wouldn't hold the weight distributed out that far off of the hub. Consideration: Way too much to be able to add a slight amount to the truning radius of the truck. 3. Make new right and left hand wheel stops and bolt them behind the hubs in place of the originals. They had to be about 1/4" longer. Consideration: Done. RESULT: They work like a champ!

Joe -
I suppose you could do something like that, but I was just trying to update my front end out the 30's and into the 50's so it wouldn't shimmy! In fact, that's really all I was looking for and kind of got carried away. Where I am with mine is good for me. I like Heim joints and the way they work, but I can't get excited about a front end with Heim joints. But, Joe, you have shown me several times that your ideas are good, workable ideas....so go for it! Joe, you remind me of me! Initially your are working on the steering box and now you are putting a new front end under your truck! That's exactly how I got a 54 front end under my truck with a 41-46 steering box! One thing leads to another!

As my street rod friend says regarding the definition of street rodding: Altering something on a vehicle resulting in the necessity of the alteration of a another thing.

I wouldn't take for the fun of it!

Joe :crazy:

This always happens to me! I think my truck is doing fine, and than I read a post on this web site about something about the trucks which prompts me to check my (fill in the part name). In this case it's the steering box. Mine is filled, or looks full, with grease. I need to get it out because I can tell it is not correctly lubricating the inside of the box. I don't know why I put grease in it! Well, I do - I thought that was the best choice so as to avoid a leaking box. Now I need to get it out because I realize it does not propertly lubricate the box. Other than just scooping, digging and wiping it out, would it be a good idea to flush it? What would you use to flush it out?

Thanks for any help!

Joe :crazy:

Joe H; I'm jumping in here a little late, but as to modern tie rod ends - Chev's of the 40's sells them with a non-tapered shank, they just bolt into the old steering arm holes after you bang the old ball studs out. I've got them on my '53. I did have to use a slim spacer to move the steering arm away from the spindle so that they wouldn't scrape the radials on a tight turn.

I'm going to look into an adjustable drag link too. Sounds good to me.

I went ahead and bought the race style Heim joints with adjustable center rod. I got the whole thing for less then $40. Speedway Motors tech guys helped me get the rod ends I needed. I haven't had time to installed it yet, its still snowing so I can't get out anyway! The ends have Teflon in them and should let it steer pretty easy. I will keep watching for the ball joint type and convert it when this wears out. Spring swap meets are coming so I should be good till then.

Waldo53, thats good to know. I seen them but didn't realize they would just bolt in. I figured they needed the taper reamer like all the others.

Joe, I went with the John Deere corn head grease in mine. Its cheap and looks like it will do a good job. It should be thin enough to flow a bit but not so thick its pushed out of the way everytime you turn it.

Joe

Joe,

I know I have seen Heim joints on dragsters and race cars. My son and I built a torque arm for the rear end on his Toyota that is suppose to keep the rear end/springs from wrapping up when doing slow crawling in rough terrain.

I wouldn't have believed it had I not seen it myself...two times this setup literally pulled the back out of the Heim joint. One was an aluminum bodied unit. We then went to a steel housing and it did the same thing.

These were quality 7/8" rod ends. Maybe there was some screw up in our design, but the point I'm trying to make is that when they did fail, it wasn't a critical steering issue.

Stuart

Atomarc, I debated for a while but after talking with the tech guys, I fell pretty good about them. They sell hundreds of them for dirt cars that take a lot more abuse then I will ever put on them. My drag car had a set on the ladder bars that were the same as I just bought only bigger diameter. It was really run hard, full throttle burn outs with 14x32" slicks bolted to a Dana 60.

Joe