The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk IF you had the cab off what should you check out?

Hello,
I have a 58 1/2 ton, the chassis, engine, driveline etc are all original. My cab is coming off in the next week or two, which is really making me think about what systems I should start planning to replace, fix. inspect etc.

While everything was functioning before I began to dissassemble the body, the easy access just begs for me to poke around.

My biggest concern is the braking system. They are drum brakes.
With no experience here I want to plan on what work a self starter like myself can handle and what I may need help on. Does anybody have a good plan of attack?
What parts should be replaced? What parts such as drums can be turned/refurbished?

Thanks,
Brian

B,
How were the brakes prior? I voted to remove the cab. Hope I'm not getting you in deeper. When brakes are concerned I'd rebuild or buy MC, lines, Shoes,Wheel cylinders and hardware. Brakes aren't the place to mess around with your kid..........kids or anyone else on the road. It will be easier with cab off to replace/repair the majority of the suspension clean and paint if desired. Not trying to get you deeper but don't want to see you regret maybe later wishing you did. Have fun and good luck with whatever you decide.....Save some time for the new addition
Dan

Brian:
Decide what you want and go for it. Don't worry about not knowing what you're doing, most of us don't either.

Brian,

I too am building a truck for my son, but in a hot-rod style. Based on safety-first, here is what I did, maybe it will help you decide what to do;

1. Remove the stock front suspension in its entirety and replace it with a Mustang II style kit. The stock suspension's inherent bump-steer is scary, as is the steering arm linkage.

2. Mustang II kit includes 11" disk brakes in front.

3. Replace stock rear drums with disk brakes.

4. Toss the stock single-reservoir master cylinder and replace with power dual master cylinder kit, and all new brake lines.

5. Inspect the frame to ensure there are no cracks/heavy corrosion/etc. Repair as required.

6. Not done yet, but I plan to toss the stock tank and replace it with one between the frame rails at the rear.

7. I also plan to install a 4 or 6-point roll cage in the cab. A little much, but he's my only son. Ya know?

If I had only one upgrade to choose from, item #4 would be it. A dual master cylinder is a must-have upgrade in my mind.

I'm also sort of a novice at this stuff (been away from rodding for 25 years or so), but if you take your time and follow the installation instructions, you can do it all.

Hope this helps.

Antny

With the body off, now would be an exellent time to thougholy inspect the frame for issues, the brake lines, overhaul the suspension and drivetrain. With the engine/tranny out, acess si very easy to all of the lines and such. When I did mine, I replaces all of the lines, hard and flex, as well as a complete overhaul of the springs/kingpins. I found it easier to work on the suspension by supporting the frame on a sturdy pair of sawhoses (ours are very overbuilt) that allows one to drop the axles out as a unit, then work on them off the truck.
The drums, if in spec (about 11.030, max) and not out of round, should be able to be turned, as far as the hydraulics go, there are replacements available, I would just go with new. You'll want to do the kingpins and spring /shackle bushings at this time, too. Much easier to deal with without the weight of the body/engine on the frame. If you plan to keep the original engine, do the overhaul on it, and replace in the frame before reinstalling the cab, saves alot of headaches.

WHen the cab off is the easiest time to get your brakes in good shape. As Chev4t6 said, rebuild/replace master and wheel cylinders, brake lines, shoes, drums, springs, hold-down pins, etc. The brakes should definitely be in top notch condition! I've kept the original front end and brakes, kept them in good condition over the years and they've always worked great. The brakes and steering are different than a modern car, but kept in good shape, it by no means is bad or unsafe - after all, it's a truack and an old one.
Samantha

Thanks Dan, Bill, Anthony, Samantha and Big Chevy!
I appreciate the support. I know most of you have been helping me along and voted for the cab removal.

Don't worry Dan I am not on any time constraints so "my new addition" is priority number one along with my wife and 1st daughter. So here is what my plan is:

1. Frame is solid
2. Engine and driveline are solid so I won't pull them.
3. Replace the brake lines
4. Remove wheels and evaluate the condition of the brakes (i may have a mechanic look at these or I may post some pics). I would like to keep the original front end and drum brakes...the conversion is just too far out of reach and I am more of a cruise on the coast guy).
5. I want to replace all the brake lines and the two hoses.
6. I am not sure how to evaluate the master cylinder..
7. New parking brake cables
8. New shocks
9. Should I take apart the leaf springs and replace the u bolts? and kingpins?

I will keep you updated with progress and inundated with questions!!
Best,
Brian

sand blast the cab and paint it then when you put it back on you will have something good to look at

" With no experience here I want to plan on what work a self starter like myself can handle and what I may need help on. Does anybody have a good plan of attack?
What parts should be replaced? What parts such as drums can be turned/refurbished"?

Hi Briang,

Before you do anything equipt yourself with knowledge, its the best and most important tool you can have and use. Buy some books on the subject of a restoration and what is involved. A lot of restorations begin with good intentions and end off unfinished projects. If things are in reasonable condition already you can perform a satifactory "body on" restoration removing the bed and front sheel metal. Don't just take things apart, get a plan of attack first determining what needs to be done. The brakes and suspension can be performed with the cab on the frame and the front sheet metal and bed removed. Of course if the cab is rusted, then blasting it is the way to go as was mentioned above. Just don't know if you will be getting in over your head is all and then become frustrated, however you started at the right place which is here and the expert advise and knowledge is amasing. Good luck and post some pix of your progress.

Dave

You'll find really early that these old trucks are very forgiving. Don't let anyone make you feel as though it can't be done. I mean...really, it's just a machine, and if it was built, it can be fixed. Original is best unless you want to build something for the "Goodguys" runs across the country with the A/C blasting and the stereo going, cruise set, etc... Like most have told you, being able to stop and steer is the most important thing about driving one of these beasts. You can do it, and there are some of the bestest folks in the world right here on this site to help you get it done. Good luck and have a great time with your new toy.
Tramp

Briang,

Hope I wasn't tring to make you feel as though it can't be done. Its just I've seen many a project for sale for several reasons. Lack of money, tools, interset (due to being overwhelmed), and lack of knowledge. Most of these folks just start with tearing the vehicle apart and unfortunately thats usually where it ends up, with the person frustrated and discouraged to the point where they never returning to the hobie again. Didn't want that to happen to you.

My intent was for, YOU to be sure, that YOU, know whats involved in such an undertaking...and ultimatly, of course, succeed. I also believe that anything done by anyone can be done by youself just as well if not better and that has been my motivation. Some work their way up to their skill level...There is a lot to learn and , like me, it took time. Unfortunately I wasn't "born" with the knowledge. Some start out full scale... But as you stated you had little experience, so I did not want that to happen to you...Just stating the facts.

Be sure of where you jump before you jump. Good sound advise is all I was tring to stress here. What ever you do , we are all here to help.

Dave

Hey Dave,
No worries brother, check out some of my pics on the progress I have made. I am not scared. When I do not have money I work on cleaning items, prepping, sanding, and researching. I will even make planned purchase lists etc.

When I get frustrated I go surfing or skating and just let it sit.
When I lack the knowledge I ask, read etc.
When I do not have the tools, I improvise.

The bottom line for me is that it is fun and I take pride in learning, just 2 generations ago alot of these things were more common knowledge.

I have already media blasted all the sheet metal and cut out all of the rust and replaced those areas with new sheet metal or patches. Take a look...I am pretty impressed with myself to date.

All the best,
brian

Briang, I agree with the stuff already noted above. The master cylinder if not a dual reservior should be replaced with one that is. If you break a line or loose a wheel cylinder with the single reservior system you have "NO" brakes. The dual master seperates the front from the rear into two seperate systems. SAFETY is the key with these old trucks and beauty comes later! So work on the steering, suspensoion, and brakes first, make it safe to drive. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

Hey 41 Chevy will do!
are you going to the BIG 3?
brian

Hello,
So I am looking at the suspension;
has anyone used these?
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/find.asp?

Has anyone used Spicer?

Let me know
Brian

Never used Ecklers, but I have used Spicer. Decent parts and the price isn't too bad either. Best sorce for replacement U joints, especially since the originals were Spicers. will admit to being partial to Moog for front end parts, they are a superior quality, but they are more exspensive, too.

Briang,
Should have looked at the pix first. Looks to me you have the skills and equiptment to do the tast at hand.
Dave

Hey Dave,
The this is my first truck, I am very green at the mechanicals etc

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all of the help....everything is now disconnected...the cab is coming off by friday and I am super excited!! I will post some updated pics later tonight.
Brian

so 9 year delay, life happens..Its good to be back...shortly after this post I blew my Patellar tendon in my knee, followed that up with a new baby, then a third LOL...then I decided to injure my spine/neck...just recovered from spine surgery (got 2 new discs in my neck)..just cleaned up the garage this weekend and starting work on this beauty again...

At least you didn't give up. Good for you.🛠

Three years isn't so bad. I'm getting back into my truck after 14 years. Only problem I'm having is remembering where I stashed some of the parts. And that somehow my back and knees have gotten older!

Tim

Keep at it Brian, don't give up.

Thanks guys! Excited to be back on it.