The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What does this connect to, and other q's??

Hey guys, I have this '49 3/4 I'm trying to get running. The truck has been in my wifes family since almost new, I got the truck about a year ago after it was sitting for about 10 years. I think my grandfather in law (now passed away) had done an engine swap out of a GMC pickup of around the same year. I don't know if it's a 216 or 235 or other. Not sure if it has the right carb on it or not or if it matters. One of many things I can't figure out is where this little rod (about 5 inches long with a bend on the end) that is near the carb but between the header and head is supposed to connect to? I don't know if its supposed to go to the carb or what. The engine seems to be seized, I tried to spray some penetrating oil in the spark plug holes but that didn't seem to loosen it up. I had taken the valve cover off and I didn't see much rust at all. I buddy of mine said an idea is to fill up the engine with deisel and let it sit for a month or so and see if that loosens it up. What do ya think? Any tips and advice is really appreciated! Thanks for the help guys!
Jeremy

Hy lazy j, as they say one picture is worth a thousand words.

Yeah I know, I was trying to get a pic up but couldn't figure it out.

the rod you mention is prolly the middle of the 3 sections of throttle linkage .... not important until you free the engine, or pull the head to see if the cylinders are rusted beyond use

Bill

lazy j,
I was also stuck in the no post photo BOOGAROO land for a long time , tried web-shots couldnt work it ..lol
Try Photo bucket it is very easy to use ,its free,and it works ..only suggestion is only upload 1 pic at a time if i try to do more than that it messes up & I have a broadband connect.
check out my 1st try with photobucket .
All ya have to do is upload your pics ..an here just type in your COMPLETE address on your account (AS I DID BELOW)..an every one can access your pics.
Good Luck !
Tim

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/SW_Radial/

No need to "fill the engine up with diesel". A couple of ounces in each cylinder will do the trick, if it's free enough for the trick to work.

Find the casting number of your block and look it up at Inliners International

Ditto on using Photobucket. Also be sure to link to the pics instead of posting them directly into the thread. Check in the ITShortbus forum. There are threads there related to linking pics. Bill is working on redoing the glovebox manual which is where the basics of linking will be found when it's done.

Thanks for telling me about photobucket. I'll see if this works. I went to get some parts for my truck today and the guy I bought them from was saying it sounds like I have a 235, maybe you guys can let me know if he's right. What do you think is better to spray in the cylinders- penetrating oil or deisel? Thanks for the help!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1250556.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1250560.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1250558.jpg

Hy lazy j, that engine is a 230,or a 250, which is a newer engine than the 235, that piece of linkage probably connects the the choke to the fast idle cam on the throttle, hope that helps.

but there's no where for it to connect to the carb? Is this the wrong carb? The motor has the 3 bolts on either side of the valve cover to hold it down. There also looks like a hose connects to the choke on the carb but there is no hose to connect that I've seen. I really appreciate the help cause if I don't do the work myself I can't possibly afford to get the truck running and drivable.

Hy lazy j, no I don't believe that is the correct carb for that engine, as I said it is an engine used in 63 and newer trucks, that piece of linkage may connect from the thermospring to the choke on the proper carb, which may be a Rochester Monojet, hope that helps

Welcome lazy j to the Stovebolt Page. Good luck with the old truck. I agree that is a 63 or later 230 or 250 motor. I would be interested to see what was done with/about the transmission mounts. Hang in there and don't get discouraged. If you can find the serial number stamped on the flat pad behind the distributor post it here and we will see if we can help. The motor was stuck in my 50 Chevy when i got it. I used a generic penetrating oil, along with some Marvel Mystery Oil. Other people prefer Kroil, PB Blaster, WD-40 and other lubricant/penetrants. You really can't put too much in each cylinder. Try to be patient and let the oil do its work. If/when you can turn the motor over by hand and feel no resistance, with the spark plugs out (and the crankcase full of clean, new oil) turn it over with the starter for awhile before trying to actually start it. Good luck and do it safely! These old GM trucks can be alot of fun.

How is the left end of that little piece shaped? I'm agreeing with everyone else that that is a 230 or 250 engine, the square intake manifold tubes are a give-away on that much. We can help you a lot more with the serial number on the pad behind the distributor.

That carb looks like a Rochester Monojet or a similar one (Rochester BC, maybe?). The correct carb for a 230 or a 250 is a Rochester B or a Carter YF, depending on where it was sold (IIRC, someone will come along and correct me).

Hey guys, the number on the side of the motor is 3877178. My next question was gonna be what carb should be for this motor so thanks! I can't see the other end of the little rod cause it goes down between the head and manifold. What am I supposed to try to turn the motor back and forth with to try and free it up. The pulley on the crank looks to be pressed on and there's no bolt to turn. Should I just try and turn it using the flywheel? The trans is held up by a homeade crossmember I'm sorry to say, but looks like it's not going anywhere. I need to figure out what wires/ cables aren't supposed to be connected to this motor that were connected for the 216. If you couldn't tell I don't have much no how in this department but the only way it will ever be running and driving is if I do most of the work myself becuase I just can't afford to spend much. Thanks again for the help!

Hy lazy j, that number is a casting number, it identifies it as a 62 - 78 230 or 250, there is a number stamped in a pad behind the distributor that should help us identify it a little better, hope that helps.

Hey thanks for the tip! That number reads F122OPV. Inliners.org doesn't seem to want to work for me tonight either. Would the original trans bolt up to that motor or is it more than likely the trans that came with this motor? Can someone dumb down the definition of a torque tube style rear end?

Hy lazy j, a torque tube rear end has no visible driveshaft or "U" joints, but a solid tube from the rear axle to the back of the transmission, hope that helps.

well I can see the carrier bearing and the two u joints so I guess the rear has been swapped or......? But the rear still uses the lever shocks.

Can someone please let me know what motor I have? The number reads F122OPV. I'm dying to find out what I have. Thanks guys!

This page from the LMC catalog says that your engine is a 63 or 64 292 cid.

This page says that it is a 68 250.

Measure the side covers under the spark plugs on the left side of the engine, if they are 4" tall, it is a 230 or 250 and if they are 6" tall, it is a 292.

Try to give us a photo of the passenger side of the engine with the carb installed there should be a place for the linkage. What type of carberator do you have?? It should say on the carb.

Casting #3877178

Truck 230 1965-66 W/O A.I.R.
w/ head casting 3824437, 3864886, 3872708

Truck 230 1967-70 W/ A.I.R
w/ head casting 3927763

Truck 230 1967-70 W/O A.I.R.
w/ head casting 3895052

Truck 250 1967-72 W/O A.I.R.
w/ head casting 3895052, 3927763

Truck 250 1967-72 W/ A.I.R.
w/ head casting 3927763

Passenger also used 3877178

Thanks guys for the help! I added some links to pics of the side of the motor and the carb. The # for the carb must be on the back cause I couldn't find it but I do know it is a Rochester. I don't know where that linkage is supposed to go and there's supposed to be a line that threads into to the front where it adjusts the lean and rich but there's no line to connect. Where is the # for the head located? The side plates are 4" on the motor below the spark plugs.

Can anyone tell me if the rear was swapped if the u joints and carrier bearing is visible but the rear still uses the lever shocks?

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1250558.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1310587.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1250560.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1310582.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1310583.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/sapo_trucker/P1310585.jpg

lazy j,

From recently messin' with a Stromberg 2-barrel carb on a 66 Dodge Coronet, I'm gonna take a stab at this, and see if someone shoots me down:

First, I don't know what year automatic chokes started appearing on trucks, but '49 seems too early to me for that. But I think that's what the carb in your photos has - that big cylindrical growth on the front side is a vacuum choke unloader, I think. Picture's not perfect, but that tube on the side might be a vacuum line from below the throttle plate(s). It is (I'm weak here) supposed to automatically open ("unload"?) the choke when vacuum drops, as in when accelerating, so engine doesn't stall. Or is it that it closes the choke, to increase vacuum and speed up the draw of fuel into the throttle body? Anyway . . . It's related to the choke.

So, I'm GUESSING that this is not the original carb.

SECOND, I'm GUESSING that rod you're worried about is the thermostatic choke coil thingy. It's attached to a spring coil in the exhaust manifold, which, when it warms up, the coil spring expands, pushing that rod upwards, which would open the choke automatically when the engine was warm enough not to need the choke, were it connected to a choke on a carb that uses that. It would also prevent the choke from being closed on a warm re-start.

Again, doesn't seem to me that a '49 would have that, either, so maybe it's jury-rigged to the manifold heat control valve somehow . . .Regardless, it's obviously not currently in use.

Is there a "CHOKE" knob in the dash somewhere? If so, where does the linkage go? If not to this carb, than it's prob. not the original carb.

OK . . . I'm gonna sit back and wait for someone to "school" me in carburators now . . .

-Michael

Hey thanks for the input! I couldn't tell you if you're right or wrong but I think I agree that this is the wrong carb. I've been looking at pics of 230 and 250 engines and the carbs do look different than what's on mine. It does have a choke knob in the cab, I need to see which line it is like you said. My biggest dilema is trying to get the engine free and the crank pulley must be pressed on so there's nothing to turn the motor over with. I'm really thinking about finding a running 230/250 and just swapping it out or rebuilding this one cause there's no telling what went wrong with the truck as to why it was parked for so long. It looked like he was in the middle of tinkering with the carb cause some of the lines and cables weren't connected. Anyway I really appreciate the help guys!

SW Radial - greetings mate from SW_Zacca in Oz, nice ohotobucket presetation. Rig looking great!

Sorry to drag up an old post. but with the block casting 3877178 and head casting 3895052 how can i tell if its a 250 or 230?

What's the serial number? Should be stamped on a bad near the distributor.

F0406SK. first digit might be a E or maybe even some thing else

From what I can come up with, it's a 250.

I haven't found any thing that explains the SK . I see it was built in Flint on the 4th month 6th day.

Thanks for the help