The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Need advice! Stuck on suspension project.

Well... I've gone as far as my skills/tools/experience will allow. Of course, that's not very far.

I'm adding front disc brakes and rebuilding my suspension. I've started with the rear suspension and I have the springs unbolted from the trailing arms and one side of the trailing arm off. I can't seem to break loose the u-bolt nuts that hold the axle to the trailing arms. Same problem with the top/front bolts that hold the traing arm to the frame. I've been using kroil with an impact wrench and my 1/2" drive sockets. I don't have a breaker bar or a torch. I'm thinking I'll have to find a torch, breaker bar or a 3/4" drive and sockets unless anyone here has suggestions. Thanks!

Tom Brownell, in his book, advises using a torch to heat up the SURROUNDING metal (not the bolt itself)hen trying to remove a stubborn bolt, or heating the nut itself when working on a nut.

If you think about this, you'll see what he is doing: making the OUTSIDE part larger via heat expansion, so that the stuck piece can be unscrewed.

Be reasonable in the application of heat though, and keep the torch WELL away from any gas can or other flammables (light cigarette lighters, solvent, etc!)

Tom says it is NORMAL for these old parts to be stuck after 50 years . . .

He also warns that pure brute force (like a breaker bar or imapct gun) can BREAK the part.

Jim G

cut the bolts off and get new ones, i have had to do this a few times.

hope you keep up the momentum.

jeff

Since you don't have a torch (necessary stovebolt tool), you could use a nut splitter to cut them off...

Thanks guys! My buddy came over today and we went and got his 3/4 drive socket set and breaker bar. They did the trick. I still have to do the front part of the trailing arms though and they will be the toughest. Sometime during this next week if I get time, I plan on heating up those nuts with a mapp gas torch and using the big tools. Of course I'll keep you posted. Here are before pics of under the chassis. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2890600340071636143dxdxsH

I would use some PB blaster, or the equilavant to spray on now before you go out there in a couple of days.

I've been spraying them w/ kroil, but ran out today. Maybe I'll try some PB blaster for comparison. Couldn't hurt.

macdaddy..I'd suggest you replace those bolts anyway. They can get stretched and/or fractures when stuck like that. That is why I always use new nuts, bolts, washers on all projects. Cheap insurance and why fight those crusty old bolts to save nickles and dimes.

Thanks Dave, I'm with you. Everything about my suspension will pretty much be new except the A-arms and torsion bars in the front, and the trailing arms and stabilizer bar in the back. Which reminds me...Does anyone know where to get new torsion bars? I would like to have a spare set even if I don't replace them now.

On bolt and nut removal sometimes the carpenters sawzall and BFH works well..........
Dan

Success! I tried again tonight and got all of em loose. I went and bought PB blaster and tried a new trick. With my wrenches in place, I braced my arms against a crossmember and used my legs to push the wrench handle. I'm not sure if it was the technique, the PB blaster or soaking in kroil all week. It was probably all of it. The only thing I have left before the rear suspension is completely out is to get the bolt out of the top (driver's side) stabilizer bar bushing/bracket. I've got the nut off, but the bolt feels like it's bound up in the bushing. The bolt is still kind of hard to turn. I tried a mallot and a punch but no luck. Any suggestions?

4" angle grinder and cutting wheel will solve the problem in about 4-1/2 seconds. I've decided that if its a bolt that can be replaced, I'm not going to spend hours trying to save one...cut that puppy off and move on soldier!!

I wanted to save the bolt in case I can't find another. But after several attempts, it was just not coming out. So... I tried my angle grinder w/ a cutting wheel, but had interference problems w/ the crossmember and the exhaust pipe. Then I tried a smaller air powered die grinder w/ a cutting wheel and it worked! Sure hope I can find a new bolt!
My last remaining issue is the u-bolt that holds the axle to the trailing arm. The left one came out real easy, but the right one doesn't want to budge. I hammered and pried on it last night (yes, the nuts are off), but it wouldn't let go. It seems like it's welded on. Sprayed more PB blaster on it last night and will give it another shot tonight. Once that is off, the rear suspension will be completely removed. I'll have the old bushings pressed out before I clean up and paint the arms and the stabilizer bar. Thanks to everyone for your help. I love this site!

It is surprising to me how expensive U-Bolts are. Even though the price is up there I would do like 53moneypit says and replace them. You don't want to be driving down the road and see your rear end in your rear view.

Roger that Big Chevy. I already have the new U-bolts. The problem is getting the old one out. In this case I don't see that cutting it will help. What is left will still be stuck in the holes. What is weird is that the other one came out so easy.

Update: Soaked, pounded and pried for a bit everyday for the last 3 days. Went and bought a cheap 4lb blacksmith hammer today at Home Depot and pounded some more. It's finally off! Next is clean-up and assembly. I'll start the front in the next few days.

Years ago I replaced the trailing arms on a 1966 c20 i used to own.I bought the replacement bolts from my local Dean Machinery "caterpillar" Dealership. They had every nut and bolt i needed to put it back together.

Now I'm removing the front stuff. The wheels and drums are off. The tie rods and assembly has been removed. The short rubber brake lines are removed from the wheels. I have the nuts off of the upper and lower ball joints and now I'm stuck again. Looks like they are attached with large rivets? How do I remove these? Many thanks in advance! I'm going to look at the new parts and maybe I'll see what the shop manual has to say even though I don't usually get it. I'll be back.