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Anyone know the best place/price for an IFS upgrade for a '47?

There seems to be three outfits that make them - Total Cost Involved, Heidt's and Fatman Fabrications (there may be others, but those are the most common). I'll not opine on the merits of one or the other (I have a TCI in mine and it hasn't fallen apart yet). WARNING!! Don't think the price of the kit is it; it took me about another $1,500 of stuff you need to actually drive the car after it's in (brake master, steering linkage, p/s pumps and brackets, etc. etc.)

I too have the TCI setup. It has worked out very well for me. And yeah true,your gonna have to change master cylinders,steering ,etc.So it aint a cheap conversion.By the way my truck is a 55 2nd series.

I went with the Heidts IFS set up on my 51 and it worked out real sweet, But as already stated it isn't a cheap conversion

I am starting from scratch so i will have to buy all the extras anyway. I am just looking for the best and most cost effective way to go.

i checked out your pics. what kind of tranny are you using?

A 700R

Have you thought of the alternatives? A wrecking yard IFS can be a much less expensive way to go. I have a '39 Packard on which I am changing out the front end to a '84 Corvette C4. Cost of front end from eBay was $600.00. I did look at front ends from guys already mentioned but just the crossmember for a Packard was about $900.00 from Fatmans. I have no experience doing this type of work so I am relying on the wealth of knowledge from my street rodding buddies who have done this many times. Good luck.

Check www.classicperform.com

Although a junk yard IFS might be a little cheaper,lets say $600.chances are you will have to rebuild the unit when you install it.I bought the TCI even tho the cost was more for the ease of insallation. If you wanna go the extra work and cost of a rebuild,yeah the junkyard route is the way to go.Just as with any other job,measure,measure,then measure again before you weld it in.

I went this route.

Scott

I went for a TCI Mustang II style IFS crossmember, a little less $ than the price you're quoting. Theirs accepts GM components, (all except a T'Bird R&P). How is your design different/better than the TCI, Heidts, FatMan, etc.? Theirs was tested/has a track record. Yours? Any design drawings available? I'm a professional (mechanical) engineer and would love to see some.

If I sound a little skeptical, it's only because the front suspension is kinda important to the health/safety of the occupants and other drivers/pedestrians. Before I order a home-built (is it?) crossmember, I'd want to know why it's better than the ones that are already on the market, and a bit less expensive (not that that matters much to me).

Convince me, I've got another project in the works!

Antny

55stepside

I wont share drawings, however the FE model will be analyzed the week of Feb4th. Also Mustang 2 does not equal GM components. At best you can get the 4.75 BC. The M2 front end doesn't have the lower A-arm bushing spacing that it needs to support high loading. It has a strut bar.

I am not claiming my front cross member is better, only different in that it will be setup to use either Stock GM parts, or Aftermarket racing. My price is my price and it is not finalized yet.

Also, I think you spelled your name wrong

Scott

I understand about not wanting to sharing drawings. No problem. I was just trying to understand what it is that you're fabricating/offering and would like to understand how it's made. When you say the FE model will be analyzed, what does that mean? Is it being lab tested to determine yield points, etc? Yes, the GM 4.75 bolt circle is what I have, it matches the GM rear axle BC. This way my spare can be mounted on any corner. My lower A-arms (tubular steel type) have added strut bars, as well as the gussetted through-tube for the lower a-arm pivot bolts, and boxed crossmember ends. I think all 3 of these things are important to a safe system. Sounds like that's what you're building?

No, I didn't spell my name wrong, it's what my friends call me, so it stuck.

Antny

FE = Finite Element. I wont make anything without analysis telling me it wont break under normal loading

Scott

Good idea, for sure. Even the mass-market manufacturers' crossmembers have failures. The strut rod eliminator type crossmembers are scary, which is why I added the strut rods.

Anyway, when you get photos of your crossmember prototype, I'd love to see it.

Antny