The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Gonna keep the 235!

So after some serious soul searching and investigation I have decided to keep my truck a true stovebolt. Now I find myself with a new question for you all.

If a guy wanted to spend 500-600 bucks on some sort of power adder what would it be?

I am thinking about having my head rebuilt because right now my truck kinda sounds like a diesel, with the clacking and what not.

Anyways, I wanted to keep you guys posted on my thoughts as I progress.

I would like to have something fun to show off at the car shows this summer.

I was thinking maybe rebuilding the head and putting on a new intake?

Can I run a stock exhaust manifold with a non-stock intake manifold, like a 2x1???

thanks,

kyle

I would start with a compression check and determine if the head actually needs work. Nearly all 2 x 1 intakes will have a provision to mount to the stock exhaust so you should be ok there as long as you don't try to mate a 216 intake to a 235 exhaust. Dual carbs without dual exhaust won't add much for performance but will do plenty for looks and you can deal with the exhaust later.

Curt B.

What I would do is a compression test as mentioned above, to test the condition of the rings. First, make sure each cylinder is within about 10% or so of each other. Then squirt oil in each spark plug hole and test again. If compression comes up a LOT when you do this, then it is due for a rebuild with new rings and a hone. Then that's what your money should go against.

If, however, the change was not that significant, then what I would do is leave the rings alone and I would take off the head. When you do this, it is very important you not only put a straight edge against the head, but also the block. If the block is straight, then you can have the head shaved. But if the block isn't straight either, then I wouldn't go any further with the head. This is because I made that mistake. I had the head shaved to increase compression to 9 1/2:1 but the block was warped, and so I can't make my head seal up.

If you are able to safely shave your head, that should run you about a hundred bucks to pump it up a point and a half in compression. Another hundred should allow you to replace the valve seats with hardened valve seats so you can run unleaded fuel.

Then what I would do is buy a set of either Fenton headers, or else tubular 235 headers available from Speedway Motors. That's a couple of hundred bucks.

Then finally, I would keep the single carb intake and instead would change over to either a Holley/Webber 2 bbl carb or a Holley/Carter 2 bbl carb, with a cast-aluminum adapter. I went with the Holley/Webber carb and gained both torque and power, and found an extra 500 or 600 rpm capability on the top end. I also picked up between 1 and 2 mpg. This should run you a little over $100 bucks through Langdon's Stovebolt and was one of the best modifications to my 235.

If you've got the money left...next thing I would put on the list is a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion for about $75 bucks from Summit Racing. It really made it easier to start my engine and was so much better than always adjusting my points.

If, after your compression test, you have some ring issues, you could delay rebuilding it by using Renew oil additive, which will increase your compression and your ring seal. But if you do need new rings, I wouldn't take the head off to shave it. Just make do and spend your money on other things, and save up for a rebuild.

Do what the other guys said... Check your compression before you do anything else.

The heads on these old engines are pretty noisy. I don't know if any amount of rebuilding will change that, though. If I was looking for more power, I'd check the compression, and then if that was okay, start looking at intakes an carburetors.

Of course, I haven't looked at anything in the carb department, so I can't help you there. Off of the top of my head, I'd say I'd probably switch to a 2bbl setup just because it seems like less screwing around and probably better performance for the time and money. Of course, I could be completely wrong. Do some research and then decide what you want to do. It's your truck and you ultimately have to make the decision as to what gets done.

I agree. I wouldn,t go in there & snatch the head off. I would find out what "sounds like a diesel" is. It might just need a valve adjustment or it could have some piston slap. If you know someone knowledgable or a fellow Stovebolter in your area, have them listen to it.

Hey thanks guys, those are some great ideas. Sounds like the consensus is compression test. That should be easy enough. I really appreciate your ideas.

Kyle

If it's your valve train that is noisy you might remove the rocker arms and check them to see if they have worn in the area where they contact the valve.( They probably have) You can grind these smooth again and reset the clearances, which should help in the noise department.If you do grind them take note of the unworn area and try to maintain that radius They have a slight radius. Also do as the others have suggested.
Cleon