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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,298 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 | Are the brake and clutch pedals on a ’41 supposed to be the same height?? My clutch pedal is about 3 inches shorter (below) the brake pedal. The clutch pedal is sitting right up against the rubber stop on the front side of the toe board so it is as high as it is going to get. The brake pedal is sitting against the toe board as there is no stop or place to install a stop that would make it lower. Both are properly connected at the pivot and there are new bushings there. Neither of the pedals show any sign of welding so I’m thinking they have not been modified, it just seems strange that they are so different in height. Maybe at some time over the years someone with one short leg installed different pedals. | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | There were 2 different brake/clutch pedal setups. One setup had the master cylinder bolting to the frame. I suppose it is possible that you have one pedal from each of the setups? | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | You just made me walk out in the cold and peek at my coe. The clutch sits 2" lower and deeper-ish then the brake. I think the brake pedal is higher for those times you need both feet to really stop your load... | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,403 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,403 | Yeah, what he said. The truck I'm trying to get(54 Chevy 3100) has the brake pedal a little higher than the clutch for (I'm guessing) more leverage. | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | My 58 was like that. I took the shaft off & took 1 1/4 in. out of it. It looks & feels better. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | Kip - My 37 has a "stop" under the toe board for the pedal to hit against when it is in the released position. It's a rubber piece that is bolted to the toe board. I think the 41-46 uses the same piece, especially since all of the pedal assemblies are basically the same. Check the Steele Rubber catalog and I think you might find the part there. It could be the same part as the clutch "stop". Joe 
Last edited by 6cylindersovertexas; 01/20/2008 8:48 PM.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 784 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 784 | Kip, I think Joe has it right. Mine are at the same level. I think you are missing a stop. George | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 | OK… I didn’t want to do it cause its 5 degrees out there, but I went out to the garage and checked. The toe board had a nice depressed boss area complete with two bolt holes that perfectly fit the rubber bumper pad that I got from Chevs. BUT this is ONLY under the clutch. There is no sigh or indication of any stop in this area for the brake pedal. Maybe the one for the brake is mounted somewhere else, but. I’ve had everything in that area apart and rebuilt and did not see anything that looked like a stop or the remains of a stop for the brake pedal.. Do you guys have rubber bumpers for both the clutch and brake?? Mine is a ¾ ton and the master cylinder is bolted to the frame. All of the linkage appears to be correct and probably original. It does seem a little odd as the brake pedal just sits solid against the front side of the toe board metal to metal and even if the pad for the clutch pedal was removed the clutch pedal would still be a couple of inches lower.??????????? | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | OK, Kip. I'm not saying I'm right, but it just makes sense that there should be a bumper there. What if you come up with a piece of something that you can size to act as a "dummy" bumper for the brake pedal? By doing that, maybe you can get the right thing going on. On the other hand, with the master cylinder on the frame, there is a long rod, if memory serves me correctly, that it seems can be adjusted to length, as you said. Let's look at that again! As you can tell, I'm kind of stalling here until someone else comes in and tells us both exactly what needs to be done. Just trying to help!
Joe :crazy:
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 | Kip, I believe what the manual calls for when you adjust the brake pedal is to have it stop 1/2 inch before it hits the underside of the toeboard. I just added a peice of 1/2 inch rubber with a couple of screws and nuts to hold it in place. Now the pedal has something to bump up against when it is released.
Brian | | |
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