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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,004 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 97 | I have a 63 and am considering going to a mustang two front. I just recently re-did all the steering components, as well as other things. Here is the full run down:
Upper and lower control arms with New upper / Lower ball joints
Drag link with New inner and outer tie rod ends
Power steering box
3" Drop spindles
5 lug disk brake setup from a later truck (5x5 pattern)
I did not replace the pitman arm nor the actual control arm bushings/shafts.
What do you think all that is worth?
1963 Chevy P/U: Forged LS1/4L80E swap and big hit of N20 coming
1973 Camaro: Low compression solid roller LS1 with PT91 turbo Built for the Silver State classic
1967 Convert Continental: Stock Cruiser
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I'd suggest staying with the superior truck designed parts already on it. No real need to change it. Since you've already overhauled everything, it should work fine, and will outlast the Mustang parts.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 97 | Weight is the main reason. Truck is more of a drag truck than a daily driver. I was thinking about maybe just removing the stock cross member and building a new one. I think that is where most the weight is.
1963 Chevy P/U: Forged LS1/4L80E swap and big hit of N20 coming
1973 Camaro: Low compression solid roller LS1 with PT91 turbo Built for the Silver State classic
1967 Convert Continental: Stock Cruiser
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