The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Determining Solid or Hydraulic Valves

I have a 250 6 cylinder in my 66 c20 that came out of a late 60s vintage vehicle of unknown origin. The valve lash currently varies between cylinders, but I am not sure if the motor has hydraulic or solid lifters. Is there an easy way to tell with minimal work? I plan on adjusting the valves, but need to know which type they are. I heard on the late 50s 235 6 cylinders that the cars had hydraulic and the trucks had solid lifters. Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance!

I think all 194-292 series had hydraulic lifters regardless of application.

Well... I adjusted the valves as if they were hydraulic and I noticed that the valves were tightening down, not the push rods/lifters. I went ahead and finished. It cranked over real easy and coughed, but did not start. So I backed them all off the 360 degrees that I had tighten them and it started. I let it warm up and adjusted the valve clearance to .005 inches. It now runs pretty smooth. I could not find any valve clearance settings in my Chilton manual. Is .005 reasonable? I used to set air-cooled VWs anywhere from .004 to .008 depending on the engine, but on this 250 I don't have a clue. Thanks in advance.

JC,

When you set hydraulic lifters you have to tighten in small increments with a little rest between cranks. The lifter has to have time to bleed down...if you don't give it a little time, your valve will open as you described.

With the engine running, you should be able to push down hard on the lifter end of the rocker with a hammer handle or block of wood. Holding hard, constant pressure should collapse a hydraulic lifter and make the engine sputter and flop until you release it and the lifter pumps back up! If all this happens, you have hydraulic lifters.

Stuart

One hydraulic lifter adjusting accessory that comes in handy is a 6-pack of your favorite brew. After doing the adjustment, retire to the hammock or lounge chair, and consume most, or all of the beer before starting the engine. This allows the lifters to bleed down to their correct height, and prevents any held-open valves from causing a compression loss.
Jerry

with VC removed and eng at idle and warm loosen until clatter then tighten until clatter gone then 1/4 turn at a time tighten 3/4 to 1 turn..If this willnot work,,adj intakes at .08 to .10 and ex at .16 engine at op temp...doc (PS it should be hyd unless someone has changed it)..doc

Thanks for all the advice. Doc41's instructions worked out the best, better than the Chilton manual's input. It idles and runs a lot better now and has a whole lot more power!

I don't have my 66 service manual in front of me, but if my memory serves me correctly, the intakes are .008" and the exhausts are .012". And the 194/230/250/292 family has hydraulic lifters in it.

Hope this helps!