The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk repairing lever shocks

Anybody been able to repair lever shocks on their own? I have 4 double action lever shocks that don't work and would like to avoid the big expense of going through Jim Carter's if I could. They don't seem to be leaking - then again I haven't opened any of them up. Should I try to open up one of the ends or the screw plug on the side to fill it. Any suggestions?

I have never been successful in opening them because they are frozen closed. Some people have and I am certain you will hear from them.
There are two companies in the USA that rebuild them but again are very price, upwards of $175 per corner. I would like to get my rear ones done but that kind of money is out of my reach, especially when you add in the shipping costs.

Have you tried putting some oil in them? Mine were dry but worked when I put oil in them.

I agree. Put some oil in them and try them out. You might be plesantly suprized. Mine only need oil.

That is if you can get the cap off, right? I think mine might take more than that as they are leaking badly.

End's or screw plug? I would like to know also.
What kind of oil - will Marvel Mystery Oil work?

Hydraulic jack oil. I can only speak about the shocks on my 38 because those are the only shocks I've dealt with. There is a small plug on mine that is removed to access the reservoir.

I'll try the plug on the side - seems less intimidating than the end caps.

If they need oil, why? These units are sealed. Are the gaskets bad. Are the shafts worn. If so, a company called APPLE Does a professional rebuilding should they need it. Also look in Hemmings for this service.

I started a thread in the HIPO section on hearing a comparasion. Its called "lever shock vs modern tube". Please guy's review the topic and post your comments. I need your imput. Thx.

Dave

The Chevrolet Service bulletin has one on these about operation and fill instructions. Appearently they need to be pumped up by operating the lever and fluid added until full. I can try to scan the bullentin and e-mail it to you if you want. I can also scan the parts list which has a cut away view but only for the single action type for you as well. Let me know as I do not know how to post that stuff on here yet.

Dave

Years ago, I repaired the rear shocks on a '39 oldsmobile by filling them with 90 wt transmission lube. They did not leak and worked great. I had expected them to be excessively stiff, but were not.
The rear shocks I purchased from Jimmy Carter for my 1960 stepside are so stiff the ride reminds me of a Harley hard tail.
meansam

Here is my question on filling the lever shocks. Mine have no fill plug as pictured in manual. It states "remove rear cover and replace cover with one that has a fill plug". I guess mine have never been removed or filled since the plug isn't there. Can they be filled any other way? Can you get these covers with the fill plug as pictured anywhere? Carter doesn't list them. Has anyone drilled and taped the cover for a plug to fill the shock? Appreciate the input

Interesting Mazzer, no fill plug? any way to post some pix, I 'd like to see em. If you need to try a rebuild yourself, I believe "the fillin station" has a kit for these.

Dave

Apple Hydraulics mentioned above, will rebuild them at about $165 each shock.

WOW!
expensive, Carter sells the rebuilts for 119.00 with an exchange.

Why are they so costly to rebuild?

Apple Hydraulics is about 20 miles from my shop in Calverton NY. Unless they have changed hands/attitude in the last 10 years, I would go with Carter or ANY other company. Just IMHO.

The plug that has the relief valve under it is of course on the shocks but the fill plug on the cover plate that is held on with three screws is not there (see old chevy manuals on web). If you read the 1947 truck shop manual on filling the shock..it states that you have to take off the original plate and replace it with on that has the fill plug. I know from reading various posts that some advocate filling the shock at the relief valve site but mine are frozen at least from my efforts so far. I think I might take the plate off one of them just to see if it is feasible to drill and tap a hole like the pic in the manual shows.

MAZZER,
WELCOME to the STOVEBOLT!!!

If those shocks are frozen, it sounds to me like a serious rebuild. You need to take them apart and evaulate why they are seized. Is there rust inside? These units are sealed so rust inside seems unlikely but you peeked my courisity as to what is causing the problem. Maybe the shafts were worn causing the loss of fluid and moisture to enter. Is there fluid inside or our you assuming they are empty.

Oh, I looked up the rebuild kits I previously mentioned and found that "The fillin Station" does not offer a kit for your application, sorry about that.

"gtow69" THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP ON "APPLE". I saw the site on the Internet and it seemed attractive. I have never used them.

Dave

I just spotted an ad in Old Cars Weekly from an outfit that sells lever type shocks priced from $65 to $165.
Apple Hydraulics, Calveton NY. 1-800-882-7753

In my Webshots page there is a picture in the "Lucille" file of the right front shock absorber. It clearly shows a slotted fill plug for adding jack oil. Problem, like all here, is how in the world does one unfreeze this plug after so many years of neglect? Its the only way to add needed jack oil. There must be a way!!! Otherwise its pay, pay, pay....for a rebuild!!! Nonsense!! Why can't we do this ourselves??

Lucille,

Fact is , with the correct tools we can perform any function that anyone can offer. The right tools first being knowledge. I totally agree. Weather it is my being cheap, over cofident or perhaps just enjoying the challange, I always figured, if someone else can do it then so can I.

Dave

Apple quoted me $165 per corner as I mentioned above.

www.applehydraulics.com
I think the shocks are up to $175 now according to their site. And there is only a ONE YEAR warranty on them. Plus you have to send in your core, they will ship out rebuilt shocks before they get the core, and if its no good then there are more charges.

On my 49 I used motorcycle shock oil in my lever shocks and they seemed to work as well as a single action shock could but two of them stayed damp with oil seeping from the seals.I decided to change to '50 model shocks and mounts for way less than one rebuild.Seems like I had to use a good pair of vise grips to get the fill plugs out the first time.

Years back I acquired a Craftsman manual impact tool, it has a 3/8” hex drive and will adapt to flat and Phillips screw driver or ½” sockets. You operate it by holding it against the screw or nut that you want to loosen and striking it’s backside with a hammer. I used it with a large flat screw driver bit to quite successfully to remove those fill plugs

By the way, once you get the shock’s end cover off you will find there is really nothing in there to rebuild. Just a couple of check valves to clean up and maybe a new gasket to cut out.

I have been watching watsjoe ? about these shocks, I also needed to know about them.
Ku-Boom! Kip's made my day for sure 'Check Valves' no rubbers
springs ect. Alright!

I have a '47 1/2 ton with these lever shocks. Eventually I plan to update suspension (front and rear)but for now I'd like to replace the lever shocks with modern style shocks. I have seen kits for '50 and up. Has anyone know of a shock kit to upgrade to modern shocks? If can find such a kit I will release the levers!

OK, Rusty,

I give ya the site for the shocks...This link will take you directly to page 46 of "Jim Carters" catalog. It is a modern replacement tube for trucks from 36 to 49 half ton's. So how about those levers?

http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/catalog4/00046.htm

Hope this helps,

Dave.

Rusty, You can also check out No Limit Engineering. They have them for 47 and newer. I used their mounts on my 46 with some minor modifications. They work great.

George

What I did for the front of my 49 was get the brackets from a wrecked 53 frame and mounted them on the 49. I measured the location from the old frame to give me a good idea where to put them.

Thanks for the info and link. I've been looking but obviously not everywhere.