The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1 Ton axle advice needed

Making a lot of progress with the old dog. Got the roll up windows in and new seals on them. Got the hood on, fixed the hood latch. Even showed to the previous owner who gave me the truck and he was very pleased with the progress.

I Got the 4.11 gears in (in place of 5.26), and now have a bit of a problem. If you follow the link to the picture....

http://home.comcast.net/~iarnstein/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1440346.html

or just click on this: click me

I filled the diff up to the fill hole (as pointed to by the green hand) and after driving the thing for 10 or so miles, now the rear axle is leaking goo pretty good. A lot out of the right side, a little out of the left side out the holes in front of the 'oil slinger' (page 5.18 for those of you who have shop guides for 55-59) as indicated by the yellow hand. You can see the results on the brake drum as indicated by the red hand.

So question is 1) did I overfill (highly unlikely) or 2) are the axle oil seals gone? (more likely since most everything else was bustificated - and the axle was probably run low on goo)

Other notes: I had to cut off the shock mounts as they were beat up and I am making new ones for the rear shocks the truck didn't come with (an option). So it got hot to a certain extent. And I will finish fabricating that mess over the next few days and will be welding them on.

The manual sez that the axle flange to hub bolts should get a bit of permatex anyway to prevent oil leaking out of the axle flange/hub mount, which would mean oil get's out past that stuff anyhoo.

Truck saw some abuse as it was pushed around by bulldozers and the frame was bent and the yokes on the u-joints were squoze.

Comments? Questions? Insults?

Thanks, O' river of knowledge....

Insults? No insults, but no answers either. I don't have any help for your problem. I did enjoy looking through your photos though.

Axle seals IMHO. The gear oil also lubricates the wheel bearings so would tend to leak a little at the hub, but the axle seals should keep the brake area bone dry. An earlier post talked about the danger of damaging the new seals while sliding in the axle. One suggestion was to slide the axle back in with the tire on, using greased boards. Prolly get your "Shade Tree Mechanic" merit badge for that, but I bet it works.

u mebe right izzy. I had to pull the axles out to put in the gear set, so that may have been what did em. I could replace the seals and see if gets any better. After 45 years, probably to be expected.

btw, thanks old sub. Pretty soon I will have the thing done up enough to put it in the gallery. Would like to have the good before/after and will wait till I got a bed on it to give a complete look. Ride is really bouncy on 1 ton with no bed!

Where did you have the kevlar brake linings done?

Don't forget to make sure the diff. vent is not plugged. They need room for expansion as they heat up.
Scott

Replace the axle seals. The easiest way to put the hub back on without damaging the seal is to lighten the load by removing the brake drum, which you have already done. With the hub off, check for burrs on the axle housing, especially on the lip where the seal slides over. Before assembly use some grease on the seal and the lip on the axle, then carefully slide the hub on, holding it straight.

When replacing the seal you will see a spring inside the seal. This spring goes on the inside of the hub so it is filled with gear oil. That's how you know it's in correctly. Also, check the axle bearings, if you haven't already. If there are grooves from the old seal on the axle shaft, it's best to put on a ready-sleeve, or it will leak again.

Did you put in a new pinion seal? if not, it will probably leak, too. And Scott is right on the axle vent, if it's plugged up the vapor from warm gear lube will expand and blow out your new seals. I learned the hard way.

Thanks Fred. Very helpful. The vent cap is on there such that it moves about a bit, so I am pretty sure it will vent ok. A big stinky mucky job, but, with no bed on it, it makes it quite easy to fool with. I also welded on some shock mounts and put on some shocks while I was at it.

I was very easy on it putting it back together - the old seals were like rocks, so they no doubt dried out while it sat in one place for 28 years. Pinion isn't leaking, but's probably because its not the original 5.26, but 4.11 instead and was removed from service in good shape.

I drove it up to post a get well card for GL and put some fuel in it and its not dumpin oil all over the place (and yeah, I did top it up), so, ok for now.

If you are curious you can see my shock mounts (1/4 inch plate) at:

http://home.comcast.net/~iarnstein/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1443259.html

click me

and...

the brakes can be found at:

http://www.praisedynobrake.com/