The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts removing rear leaf springs

I'd like to remove the rear leaf springs on my 6400. Is the 1st step to remove the U-bolt? I tried everything but dynamite to remove the nuts on the U-bolts with no luck. If it comes to cutting them off, are they fairly common the find replacements? Also, are the pins that go through the shackle and through the leaf spring threaded or are they pressed in with a locking pin at the end perpendicular to the shackle pin to prevent them from turning? I was looking through my factory assembly manual. It mentions that after removing the lubrication fitting, I'm to install a tool with a threaded adaptor into the shackle pin. Then remove the locking pin and pull the shackle pin out. Boy...Is that ever easier said then done! Or, am I read into this the wrong way. Has anyone done this before? Sounds like a need a very large hammer to get things to move.

Thanks in advance.

Hy Mummdogg, The book is correct in it's description of the removal process, however the pins/bushings may be worn, and that wear pattern may make it difficult to remove the pins. As to the "U" bolts, I was taught not to reuse them, and most spring shops can make or supply new ones. When you're trying to remove your spring pins, try to remove all the load from the spring, hope that helps.

You have the right idea.

There are actualy holes inside the frame at each spring pin and you can use a big solid punch and a big hammer to remove the pins in adition to or instead of the slide hammer. First remove the "wedge" bolts or "lock" bolts as some call them.

The u-bolts should not be re used, and chances of removing them without a torch are slim, just cut them off (measure length first)
Those u-bolts are actualy forged to flatten them a little on the top. I had the local truck shop bend them to the right dimensions, then a blacksmith friend forge them to shape and look original. I later saw original looking forged u-bolts of the same dimensions, but not sure of length, on newer Chevy 3500HD (not the pichup, but the nominal 1.25 ton truck). If I were to need any more of those special u-bolts I'll check with the GM dealer for the 3500HD rear spring u-bolts.

Grigg

I took the advice of both of ya. I raised the frame enough to release some of the tension on the springs. Dummy me, I was trying to drive the locking pins out the wrong way. With a couple of smacks on the correct side, they came out. Then with a BFH and a big punch, the spring pins came out. Is there any reason I shouldn't reuse the spring pins and locking pins? They look perty good to me.

Thanks fellas...you were a big help!

When you buy new pins and bushings, the lock pins should come along with them. I used Espo Springs and Things to supply my U bolts. Also I never get rid of the old part until I have the new one in my hand, for comparison.

truckernix...I just checked out their website. Perty kool. I'm gonna give em a call today. Thanks.

Well here's some handy tidbits, I'm getting ready to take 'tater in to start pullin the rear end out from under it and put in new spring bushings and all. Think one of the alignment pins on the spring perch is broken off, bushings all look tight, but the 'ol girl drives sideways pretty bad!
Thanks for that info Truckernix, I may be callin those guys too.