The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Odometer Refacing questions

I am currently trying to restore the gauge cluster in my 4t6. I received the decal kit from Carters with vague instructions. Instructions in the Revell model car kits were better. Anyway I cleaned, sanded and alcohol wiped the faces and they look good to go. My odometer has no numbers /markings whatsoever. Any suggestions as to how to aligned?? Tenths shouldn't matter? I thought I may be able to mark the wheels hook up a drill to the cable and spin until I get movement in each wheel? Can I do this without removing the wheel cluster? Should I start beating my head against the wall.....now? As always thanks prior
Dan

Unless the odometer just happened to be rolling over a number when you pulled it, the number wheels should all be lined up. Just put the new numbers on so that the number you want to display will be in the window when it's back in the dash. As soon as you start driving they'll start changing anyway. You can hook a drill to the cable to verify. I don't think I'd try to get movement in all the wheels. If you spin it & the only wheel moving is the 'tenths, the rest should be lined up.

But I agrre that there must be some sort of alignment or else maybe the next digit would start to turn over when the previous spot hits something other than a 9?

Agree there is a tit or something that kicks it over. I ran the drill until it kicked over from tenths to single. I don't know if I have the patience to go ahead and remove the clip that holds it together. I think I'll try taping the wheels together prior removing I guess I'll have to take a lot of pictures so I can refer to. Anyone else have any ideas please pass them along. Have a Merry Christmas and Happy, Healthy New Year. Remember our soldiers and elderly!
Dan

OK I took the plunge and tore the odometer apart. Took a lot of pics with reference. Will post pics soon. I need to know if the speedometer cable turns clock or counterclockwise at the speedometer head? From what I've seen by the way the numbers/decals I'm guessing counterclockwise looking at the dial. I have no way of checking in the truck as it hasn't seen the light of day in many moons. Anyone know offhand? Thanks prior
Dan

When I refaced my 54 odometer, I spun the cable until all my numbers were lined up. Just to make sure there wasn't one wheel advancing. Then I used a marker to draw a line across the face of the wheels....centered in the window. On the AD it was easier to pull the little clip and remove the whole line of wheels at one time. I didn't disturb the order of the wheels. If you take the assembly apart, when you reassemble, the wheels will more than likely not be in a straight line across the face of your window. This was a dead giveaway that the odometer had been tampered with. I cleaned the surface with alcohol and rolled the decal on, centering the "0" over the line I had drawn. Did this all the way across. Popped the unit back into the frame, added the tiny clip and my fresh engine started out at "000000". The decals have been on for two years and look as good as the day I installed them.

The gauge decals go on easily under the needles if you use a solution of a couple drops of dish washing detergent in a glass of water.....use a Q-tip to wet the alcohol cleaned surface and apply the decal. The moisture will let you move it around without it sticking.....when properly located, use a Q-tip to squeege out the water and smooth out any air bubbles. Let it dry out over night and you'll be surprised at how great it looks.

Dave

OK I tore the odometer apart to see how it kicked the wheel over. Here is where I started. I drew a line over the wheels cause I didn't have a clue as to what I was getting into. This was useless after I started. I pulled the pin holding the wheels together and laid them out like this. Each wheel was separated by a bracket holding a gear. This gear had a large and smaller side . In my case the large side fit the lower numbered wheel and the smaller side fit the higher numbered wheel. The larger wheel fit the side of wheel that was notched all the way around. The smaller gear fit the higher side that was notched at one spot to turn number once per rotation. After I figured that out I placed the numbered sticker with the 0 prior the single notch. Here is a picture of stickers on a nail I used to hold them on. Where the stickers met I placed a dab of glue to help secure them. Putting it back together was a chore as I'm all thumbs. I tested by hooking up a cable to a drill and spinning in reverse and it worked correctly moving the single number after the 9 moved up. Was a little off so I loosened and reset and assume the rest of numbers will work. I then replaced the face. It is pretty close to being correct, although I need to put a little white paint on one wheel to cover a boo boo. I placed it in my refinished gauge cluster . The paint isn't a great match but is the same color as I'm using elsewhere in the truck so I think I can live with that. Now I can finish the rest of my gauges and that will be one less thing to do. I know this a little long but may help someone refurbish their gauges. Have any questions ask. As always thank you for your help and support.
Dan

nice job.

Hey Dan, That instrument cluster is looking great!I think nothing is more pleasing to the eye or compliments the restoration then a restored set of gauges, especially because you are always looking at them.

Checked out the rest of the pix on your site...looks good but I have a question, why is there a picture of Fords gracing that garage wall and not Chevys? LOL...