The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Lift points? (235)

Okay, I give up... where do I attach the chains to lift this thing so I can put it on an engine stand?

Some people will use an exhaust manifold bolt and a head bolt, or a pair of head bolts. This can be a problem with bending push rods. Would not hurt to remove the rocker arm assembly's and push-rods (will you be soon any how?), then head bolts would work great.

I don't have a picture, but last time I removed and installed mine I put a lifting sling around the whole engine, under the oil pan, slipped it between the manifold and head, and choked it over the valve cover. Mine is a 55 235 in a 52 truck, so no extra room, and the radiator support top had not been cut out, and I was not about to. Rigging it like this allowed me to pretty much turn it on end, front end up and then remove it from the truck. I need a second comealong on the front motor mount to get it tilted enough.

Grigg

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the engine is sitting on the floor right now and when it comes time to put it in the truck all I'll have to deal with is bolting it to the frame because the body will be off.

This sounds a little primitive and crazy, but ive always just put the hook of my hoist on the rocker arm shaft.
If you think about it,,its not going to bend,,and nothings gonna get screwed up.
A friend came by one day and saw that and lost his mind!! But its always worked for me.

I agree with delux54panel. I have been hooking up to the rocker arm shafts for years. Get a 24 to 30 inch chain with an open hook on each end that will hook around the rocker arm shaft then hook to your hoist and your ready to remove the engine.

WOW...the rocker arm shaft. I must be showing my age. I wouldn't even, ever ever ever do that.


Stuart

Thanks Mule1951,,now i know I'm not the only "crazy" one.
I've done many,many motors like that and never had a problem.
The hoist hook definitely cant slip cuz its "locked" in by the rocker arms,and the shaft isnt going to bend or break,,theres only abt 5 or 6 inches between mounting studs.
................Think about it..............
I know people are reading this and just shaking their heads...

Whoa Nellie... I don't think I'll be going that route. At my age I don't think the old ticker could take the stress :crazy:

I was looking in the Shop Manual and they show a blurry picture of a tool for lifting a 216 that looks strangely like head bolts with rings welded to them. LIKE THIS

If you want an eyebolt, take a short, maybe 1" or 1-1/2" piece of square tubing, say 2" sq. X 1/4" wall, drill a 5/8" or 11/16" hole centered in 1 side. Drop your head bolt with a gr. 8 washer thru the hole & bolt it on. OR, just weld a short piece of 1/4" X 1-1/2" flat strap w/ the above size hole to ea. end of a 2' chain. Heat & put about a 30 deg. bend in the strap just past your weld. All these dimensions are approx., this is usually done over the yrs. w/floor scraps in the shop as needed.
Doug

Here is how I moved my 261 with clutch and tranny....

A load leveler is a good thing!

Engine Lift

Sweet!
Where did you get those eye bolts?

Any good hardware store should carry eyebolts. Check out Mcmaster Carr, they have a heck of a selection for stuff like that and even give load ratings for the different bolts/grades.

These are load rated eyebolts from Mcmaster.com

Lifted many a 216, 235, 261 using the rockerarm shafts. Never a problem.

Okay, to all you guys lifting by the rockerarm shaft, what do you do with the spring between the arms?

This may or may not set off some alarms but I've been lifting engines of all sizes with a 20' nylon tow strap for years. Everything from little 3 cylinder diesels to 460 Lincolns.

I just wrap the strap around the block so it doesn't bind on anything breakable and hook both the eye loops into my engine hoist. A short rope below and between the loops keeps the strap from slipping and I even use the leveling block with the same setup to do the engine bay installation. By doing it this way I can have the engine completely buttoned up, nothing to scratch, bend or break. Not trying to get anyone to change their lifting methods....just sharing what has worked for me.

Dave

The guy who delivered the engine used nylon tow straps and it looked pretty sturdy to me... after all we are only talking 300-325 pounds per strap.

I've used a short length of 1" woven hawser from a coast guard boat for a few years now. It has a very small amount of stretch and I tie a bowline around the harmonic balancer and one around the bellhousing, with a pair of half hitches to limit how far the line can travel through the hook on the cherry picker. It has worked well for me, and I never ever put my feet under the hoist or engine while moving it. Tow straps would work just as well. They give some indication of stress before failure, unlike a chain. Just don't create any pinch points on sharp edges.

I would trust the rocker arm shaft not to bend but I wouldn't really trust the bolts or castings that hold it to the head.

I looked up the McMaster website. Wow, they carry a lot of stuff!

I found the load rated eyebolts that "Ontheroadagain" mentioned in his post. By chance, can anyone tell me what thread would match the head bolt?

Ross