The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Babbits???

Have a 46 suburban with a babbit bearing engine. What does a babbit bearing look like?. I wanted to just do a ring job to clear up some smoke out the back but I'm not sure this can be done. Wanted to do it in place by just pulling the rod caps off and sliding the piston out the top. Any tips? I know this isn't the best way and is just temporary but could use the help anyway.
thanks
Jim

A ring job without a valve job will often be a problem because worn valves won't handle the increased compression.
You should drop the pan and look at your rod bearings. Remove one of the rods (don't lose any shims) and have a look at the condition of the babbit. If you're familiar with insert bearing engines, you'll notice that there are no shells to remove once you take the cap off.
If the babbit looks bad, there are a number of places that can redo it. Just look in Hemmings. Or you can switch to rods that take insert bearings from a 235. There are many 216's around that have this conversion (I have one).
But I've heard that babbit bearings really aren't that bad. Supposedly they have better "embedability" than inserts, so they hold up better in engines that don't have oil filters. The dirt particles bury themselves in the soft material and don't damage the crank journals. At least that's what I've heard. Good luck.

Babbit bearings don't last as long as insert bearings and are difficult and expensive to replace. In fact, there are very few people left that can handle the job.
The dirt particle theory sounds like just a story to me.
I think if you find the bottom end has decent clearances then there is nothing wrong with a rering and valve job for a rarely driven engine to freshen it up. Is there any knocking?

Tony, gotta differ with you a bit on the babbit bearings! Yes, they do "Imbed" dirt particles, but so do insert-type bearings! The Babbit bearings are just one type of metal, while insert bearings are made of a steel shell, a copper mid-section, and Babbit, or other soft metal against the crankshaft. There's also a microscopic layer of pure tin, a "flash coat" right on top to allow the bearing to fit itself to the crankshaft journal in a hurry, usually less than 10 miles of driving.

There's a machine shop in Nashville where I used to work that does the insert-bearing conversion on the 216 rods, at a reasonable cost. It still allows the splash-type lubrication, but the bearings are replaceable without all the hassle of getting them reconditioned.
Jerry

No. No knocking. Just smoke. Otherwise the engine runs perfect. Sounds like the ring job is a possibility. I have done insert jobs. Sounds like the bearing is staying with the crank when I pull the cap off? Is the same true when I pull the rod off. Would like to do 1 cylinder at a time and TAKE MY TIME and get everything back where it came from. Am I on the right trail?
thanks
Jim

46,
you should be able to do a good ring job. Those "babbitt" motors give you the ability to adjust the fit for wear. You cannot do this with the insert type. The tricky part will be trying to keep track of the shims. I suggest getting a new set from Chevs of the 40s, and reshim when you put it together, by the method in the manual. The only problem that you could run in to is if the babbitt shows signs of dropouts, otherwise go for it. I did my motor in place and it turned out really nice.

Oh, and those iron pistons don't usually show too much wear either!

I stand corrected.
This was a good link somewhere else on this site.
Engine rebuild article

A ring job was pretty common back in the day. Most corner service stations would do it for you. If the bearings are good, I'd go ahead and do it. When you put it back together, it's pretty easy to adjust the rod bearings. I start by removing one shim from each side of the cap,( they're sometimes hard to peel apart, I use an X-Acto knife to get them started.)Then tighten it back up and check to see if you can "snap" the rod back and forth on the journal. I make sure to check for the movement at all rotations of the crank(i.e. 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock etc.) in case the crank is worn a little out of round. If the cranks a little out, I've found the rods have a tendency to be a little tighter at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. You don't want them too tight, better to err on the loose side. I also clean up the journals with a clean rag soaked in laquer thinner and coat them with assembly lube before buttonning it up for good. Don't forget the dippers and make sure they face the cam!!

46 Burb--
You asked a question that nobody answered: "Sounds like the bearing is staying with the crank when I pull the cap off?" No. The babbit material is part of the rod and the cap.

Thanks guys I feel a lot more confident about what I'm getting myself into. I will be getting at it soon and I'll let you know how I make out.
Jim
Stovebolt comes through again

46,
I you need new rings or rods or other parts, I can help.