The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stored engine start up

Hi, The family '29 1 1/2 ton is now mine. Used to run good. Hasn't run for over a decade. I decided that I will drain it, fill it up with diesel and ATF, let it sit a couple of hours, and drain it again. BUT...should I pull the head and top end first? Any opinions? Where is the best source of engine gaskets for the old guy? Any other pre-start up ideas? Thanks TerryJ

Test to be sure the valves are free to open and close. I don't know what kind of engine is in that truck, but I once bent a pushrod trying start an old engine because a valve was stuck closed.

I'd be highly inclined to pull the plugs turn the engine by hand before putting power to it.

Good thought Czechman. Believe the drivetrain to be as assembled in '29. TerryJ

Welcome to the Bolt Terryj. Looks like you have a great project ahead of you. Take pictures and document your journey, then send the pictures here!

I would pull the valve cover and watch the rockers move when turning by hand. Most likely need a new VC gasket anyway

I always used to take an old squirt type oil can and squirt several shots of oil in the spark plug holes, moving the squirt can around trying to coat the cylinder walls before I tryed to turn over an engine that had been sitting for some time. Thought it would give a little lube to the cylinder walls and help not to snap a ring when you turn it over. I'd think even a few sprays off liquid wrench might be good and let it set a while, then squirt the oil in. Good luck

If that engine is the original engine, It should be the old 207 Stovebolt 6.

I don't know as I'd put ATF in the cylinders (or anywhere in the engine proper, for that matter). I'd stick with a penetrating oil and some motor oil.

You will want to make sure that your top end is freed up as well.

You should be able to use the fan to turn the crankshaft. That engine should (I think) have come with a hand crank.

Good luck!

Start with turning the engine over by hand carefully with the spark plugs out. Taking the valve covers off and watching the rocker arms move is not a bad idea. Slow and easy is the word. If it binds up or starts to turn hard somthing is happening and or somthing may be stuck. ATF will not hurt the engine, however a couple of squirts of engine oil in each cylinder will help with lubracating the cylinder walls and imporve any kind of compresion you may have left. The carb may need to come apart and cleaned out along with the fuel lines and fuel tank.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is where was the truck stored? Hopefully indoors but at least covered to keep rain off of the engine. I've seen some pretty ugly sights after pulling the heads off engines that have been exposed to the elements.

Ten years is a long time to sit exposed to the Northwest weather.

Get some KROIL and squirt a liberal amount of it in each spark plug hole. Pull the valve cover and squirt all rockers and valves liberally. Drain all oil and refill. Turn over by hand with plugs out and watch rockers and valves like westratedel mentioned. If all looks OK, turn it over by the starter and get the oil pumped through. If that all looks OK, try starting it.

Builder:
What is KROIL?

Kroil is a brand name penetrating oil - great for freeing rusted fasteners, etc. Some say it's even better than PB Blaster. Choose your favorite light, clean oil/product for freeing and lubing that baby. I agree with the others: nice, slow and easy. Get it turning over good with no binding or strange noises before you try to start it. Good luck and welcome to the 'bolt!

Kroil - Brand name of a penetrating oil.

Kano Labs/Maker of Kroil & you would need that to find them on the internet.

Kroil is rarely sold retail. Best price is right from Kano Labs.

They say they are not a retailer but they will bust a gut to get you as a customer.

Kano now has some improved formulas for Kroil. The last one I noticed adds silicone to the mix to add lubricant as the rusted parts start to move.

Their spray cans are expensive but have a nice foamy spray that condences & kinda sucks itself into the part.

I buy it by the gallon & soak cotton balls in it & set the cotton on bolts I want to loosen such as those old fender/grill bolts that rip up the surrounding sheet metal as you try to unstick them & leave the cotton ball set on the bolt for a week.... WORKS GREAT

No I don't work there.. I just use it & find it a VALUABLE tool

Hi Stovebolters, Good info, thanks. As I dig around the family, I'm starting to hear more stories about the old truck. It now appears that the last time it ran was about 35 YEARS ago, but it started on the crank then. It has been in a dry barn all these years. I was told that the engine is currently FULL of oil for storage. Just heard a tip I didn't know: Since it is an updraft carb,it is hard to prime, but there is a removeable plug in the intake manifold that gas can be squirted into. I'll go get it in a couple of weeks and send some pictures on. Who has a top end gasket set for the old guy? Thought maybe I should pull the head and look around. Thanks, TerryJ

I would pull the spark plugs and squirt motor oil in all the cylinders, replace the plugs and turn the motor over without starting it, make sure it rotates. You can do this by hand if you want or on the starter motor. I don't think there is any need to pull the head. Definitely change that oil. Also definitely prime the engine with that new oil before starting it.
Try it and see if it starts.

I don't think you are going to be able to turn the engine over with oil in the cylinders and the spark plugs installed. If the engine was filled with oil all these years, I would drain it to see how much really comes out. If it has really been in a dry barn, I would think your probably in pretty good shape. I wouldn't pull the head yet, but do a little digging to make sure there aren't any mice nests in the cylinders from an open valve. If you drain it, and can completely turn it over by hand, your probably in pretty good shape.

Kroil is made by Kano Laboratories here in Nashville, Tennessee. Their biggest customer is the US government. 35 years ago when I was in the USAF, every air base worldwide had Kroil on stock in the supply system. Good stuff! It will creep past rusted-up piston rings and end up in the crankcase after being poured into the top of a cylinder, in just a few days' time.

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry

Clean the fuel lines. Clean the carb. Check the brakes and well your doing this all place a teaspoon or two of Seafoam in each cylinder. Turn it by hand first then put a battery in it and let it go. If you remove the head you will have to replace gaskets because the will be stuck and tear. They should be fine. Trust me I still am running my 49 on its orginal head gasket without problems. Also change the oil.

One bit of warning make sure the linkage between your gas pedal and carb is free. I started my 49 after 15 years exactly how I described it but I didn't check the linkage I just assumed there was little play in the gas pedal. Boy was I wrong. That thing roared to life in a hurry. Some mice had placed soybeans in the tailpipes and they shot of there like bullets found a few more then 20' feet behind the car. Enjoy it and follow the advise and you will do find.

Also sea foam is like Kroil. It will lubricate and loosen stuff and it can and I do use in nearly everything. Pour it in the gas and oil. Upon starting the motor pour slowly some down the carb to loosen and lubricate the valves.

Before you try and start the motor make sure that the clutch will disengage. If that machine has been sitting for that long its a good chance that the clutch facings may be stuck to the fly wheel. If this is the case the machine will leap forward if the motor starts and do great harm to person & property.

If the motor is good & free and turns over try and give it a pull to start. Nice long chain and be carefull not to hit the vehicle pulling you. By pulling to start will allow the motor to turn over faster improving compression and and get all engine componets working in harmony.

Hey Westradel, The clutch thing is good advice. If it is fused to the flywheel what is the best way to unfuse it without tearing it up? Thanks TerryJ

Thanks Delux, I may take the carb off and clean it up first. I took some pictures- see them on a link at "old Family Truck." TerryJ