The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Brake bleeding

I'm assuming there is no such thing as a dumb question on this page but I need to know what to do. I've pulled the front brakes, replaced cylinders, fluid did pump out of lines before reattaching. got it all hooked up and now there is no resistance or pressure on the brake pedal. Filled the master cylinder but still, no pressure. What am I doing wrong. No leaks. Never done brakes and haven't bought manual yet so I'm depending on you all.

You need to adjust your brake shoes before you attempt to bleed them.
It's gotten me before too.

GoCougs: everything fine so far but you have to bleed lines. There is a nipple type plug on backside, 3/8 wrench open it and have somebody pump brakes slow and easy and then hold down, do this until all bubbles (air) are gone move to next brake. Do both sides a couple times to be sure. Brake pedal should firm right up. Oh yea put clear hose over nipple into bottle to keep brake fluid from running all over place. popcorn
The Truth is Out There (gohosiers)

Sounds like you've still got air in there; did you bench bleed the master before installation (if you pulled the M/C out)? Did you bleed the rear lines before doing the front?

Go to NAPA and get a "one man bleeder;" it's just a tube with a fitting on one end and a valve on the other, costs a couple bucks. Dunk the valve end in a jar with some brake fluid and screw (or press) the fitting into the bleeder. Start at the wheel farthest from the M/C and move inward; slowly pump out the old juice and keep topping the resevoir off. Do not reuse the fluid that gets pumped out, even if it looks clean. You will want some "room to move" between the shoes and drums when doing this, but the final adjustment needs to be done when the lines are free of air.

I've never had any luck with "gravity bleeding" because the M/C is mounted low in relation to the bleeders.

If you have air in the lines, you can pump all day and never feel any pressure. The way I start from scratch with the two person method is:
I open one bleed screw and place my finger lightly over the hole. I get my helper to slowly pump the pedal. My finger stops the air from going in and I stop the process when fluid is forced out. After all four are done, there is a very small amount of pumping and bleeding to be done. This method I have found to be very fast and effective.

Thanks for the education. I will be cleaning up the master cylinder and then following your instructions. I haven't noticed any leaks at all throughout so it is just a matter of time to get the stuff done.