The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop rebuilt 235 won't Start

Hey Gang,

A reader just asked me this: He has a freshly rebuilt 235 that's tight and the 6-volt starter won't crank it fast enough to start. I suggested he make sure all his adjustments (Timing, valves, crab, etc) are set correctly for a 235. Then what should he do?

Thanks,
John

Is he sure that his electrical system is up to snuff ? Heavy battery cables, good grounds , etc.

Also, have him rotate the distributor while cranking to see if that makes a difference in spinning the engine. He may have the distributor in there one or two teeth off...

Thanks Bill -- Good advice. Hopefully, he'll see this.

What else?

Regards,
John

Normally, I would not recommend this: he could power the starter (only) with a 12 volt source. A jumper cable would work: negative lead to the body-to-clutch-housing braided-ground-cable and the positive lead would have to be touched by hand to the positive post on the starter (disconnect the 6v positive lead from the starter). The ignition key would have to be turned on to provide power to the coil.

Be careful. If the starter does not turn easily, the engine might be too tight or the starter might be weak. I think that forcing 12v through the starter for long periods could damage it.

I trust that my suggestion above will be corrected and/or shot down by others with more expereience.

Tim

These trucks have been starting on 6 volts for many years. Putting 12 volts to that starter may get the truck to spin but when you put the truck back to 6 volts you still have the problem.

If you fix the problem in the first place, then you avoid having to go back and fix the problem..

Maybe the 6volt battery wasn't fully charged. If so, he should take timeout to charge it. Endless cranking on a fresh engine is not friendly to the cam. These are pretty simple so I'd first ensure gas to carb then spark at spark plug end. If that is OK, then go back to instructions for installing distributer.

I would go with the 12 volts to start it. The fresh rebuild will loosen up quick enough once its started. I had the same problem with a straight 8 Pontiac. New rings and fresh cylinders, the 6 volts was to slow to get it turning. After a break in run. The 6 volt had no problems. It may be best to replace the battery and use the factory cables. Just shut off all lights and radio. The extra voltage will help! Joe

I bought a rebuilt 1954 235 that was started up just long enough to ruin the crank,all but one piston and all the cylinders. The shims on the main berrings were not installed. The guy said it turned over hard.IF YOU HAVE A 1954 BLOCK YOU NEED TO SHIM.

To get the points set to TDC, get the #1 piston at TDC. Hook an ohm meter to the points insulated lug and to the ground (distributor housing). You should have a reading of 0 ohms or a few ohms. Turn the distributor body counter-clockwise until the reading on the meter shows that the circuit is open.snug the distributor hold down bolt and that part should be set to fire.
As the other guys have said, check the ground cable and you might even try a jumper cable ground from the block/bellhousing to the battery ground. Check the positive cable to make sure it is clean and tight.
One question,,,, how easy is the engine turned over by hand?
ALSO,, is there any metal glitter in the oil?

If he can't budge it by hand, with the fan belt, the engine should not be started because it is too tight.

sometimes one might by(incorrect rings in a box)install over size rings, this will make it hard to hand turn or start..don't ask me to go into it...fred

If, as I read this, the 6 V won't start it and it is seeming to bind or drag, then my advise is to "STOP!!!" and tear the engine down and find the problem. Could be bearings, wrong or broken rings, not timed correctly or even wrong parts in the wrong engine. Suffice to say- Something is Wrong!!-. These engines will turn over and start very easy if assembled correctly. You don't need to use twelve volts or push/pull start them. Even Master Mechanics can make errors, but don't make the error of "forcing" the engine to run.

I agree, STOP !!!!!
If it cannot be turned by hand, I would suggest internal inspection of the engine to prevent possible costly damage

I'd agree, stop. But don't all 6-volt Stovebolts crank slowly like my old 235 did?

My 51 216 cranks over at a fairly good rate. I don't think a good six volt setup is a slow cranker.

As long as you use 4/0 battery cables the 6V starter spins just as fast as a 12V. A lot of people make the mistake of putting in 2 or 4 gauge battery cable intended for 12 volt systems. They drop the voltage too much.

I just got a '54 235 back from being professionally rebuilt about 2 weeks ago. The guy who did it has done other 235's and he said in order to make the clearances right you have to shim them pretty tight. He said don't worry if it seems to be froze up when you are installing it; it's just the shims. Once you start it, they will seat and it will free up like normal. Sure enough, I couldn't turn it by hand and the starter had some trouble turning it over at first. Once it was started, everything was fine. Since the 1st start, the starter has spun it very nicely.

Also before starting it, find a long flat-head power screwdriver to spin the oil pump to get oil pressure. That will help lubricate the bearings and everything for the initial start.
Once you know the timing and everything is right (or at least close) and if 6 volts won't spin it, go ahead and jump the starter to 12. That will get it turning. It won't hurt the starter unless you just crank and crank and crank. Don't let it overheat. Once you get it started, it should free up and start easily on 6 volts if all your contacts are good and clean/tight!

Good luck!

Carl

Guy's there is just no good reason for an engine to be so tight that you can't turn it
If the spark plugs are our and it's been lubed you should be able to turn it.
If it takes a wrench that is much longer than the flywheel radius your gonna have at best an engine that doesn't run as long as it should.

Your engine builder should be cranking the engine as he or she assembles it
I had a gen drive bush tighten-up on an old engine
I was building once.If I'd not been moving the parts as I put them in it would have taken some time to find the problem

Pull the spark plugs and see how it turns over with no compression.

I rebuilt my '54 235 several years ago, and it cranked right up, even though I left the main shims out. Engine ran 300 miles before seizing.

I'd be suspicous of any motor the starter wouldn't spin over.