The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starter not engaging

I have a 1951 3100, 235. The solenid on the starter is engaging but will not turn the engine over. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

If your truck is "original", it does not have a solenoid since you have a foot operated system. The rotation of the commutator slings the starter drive gear backward to engage the flywheel.
I have seen the starter drive get dirty and dry to the point that they will not engage, but more than likely you just need to replace the starter drive. It is mounted of the rear end of the starter commutator.
The starter does not have to be totally disassembled to replace it. Just remove the rear part having the holes for the mounting bolts.
meansam

oleblue51,

Does your rig actually have a key start on it? Unless you happen to have a Hydramatic transmission, this was probably installed after the fact.

The conventional stomp starter utilizes the pressure of the foot to engage the starter drive AND close a contact to power the starter.

After the engines starts, it overspeeds the starter drive and 'screws' it back into the housing.

Stuart

Thanks for your reply. I do have the original push starter. The truck is pretty much original. It sounds as if the strater is trying to engage. There is a harsh grinding noise once I depress the foot starter.

Additional information, the truck has been converted to 12 volt, retaining the 6 volt starter. I have not had problems in the past to this extent. The started was rebuilt 8 months ago. Would your recommendation still apply? Again , thanks.

This engine is about to get it's last chance. I have installed new plugs, distributor, plug wires, carburator, and fuel pump over the last 8 months just to kep it running. Keep check, the drive train may end up for sale in the parts section.

I have a rebuilt 1967 327 waiting to go in, but I was wanting to drive it as an original for a while. Also to give me a little more time to save additional funds for the rebuild. As my wife has reminded me several times, with the money I have put into the truck to get the original motor to run, I would have additional savings for the upgrade. I just don't want to admit she is right.

If you have a harsh grinding noise it will be grinding the teeth off your flywheel ring gear. This is a very destructive mode, I know! Either there is something wrong with the drive on your starter or you have one or more spots on the ringgear that are worn out.

oleblue51,

Hopefully, when the starter was rebuilt they installed a new starter drive. The ring gear is pretty tough so it can be chewed up, but usually not enough to cause the drive to actually spin through the teeth.

My thought would be to check the linkage for worn joints. If the mechanism is worn to the point that it closes the starter switch BEFORE the starter drive is fully engaged, it could result in gnashing and grinding...especially if the ring gear were worn.

I think you can fiddle with the starter switch and fine tune it to be back as far as possible, which would allow the mechanicals to be better meshed before the starter actually started spinning.

Stuart

You probably have a bad starter drive. They slip internally. It is common with a reman starter. They try to rebuild the drive. They are not hard to put in.

Sorry it took so long to reply, with the holidays and everything. The problem was with my foot starter linkage. Worn out. I am at the end of trying to keep the stovebolt in. I am pulling it out and replacing with the '67 327. Look for the stovebolt in the parts for sale forum.

Thanks for the information and advice. I have experience in installing a gas tank between the frame rails if you are interested. I do not check this site frequently, but I will answer any questions once I see them.