The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop trying to free a semi-stuck engine...HELP please

Ok, 61 Apache with a 235..I think....straight six.
I can get the engine to turn from the 12:00 position to the 8:00 position, and then it encounters resistance...can't get it to turn a full revolution by hand.
Methinks there is a stuck valve or something...let me know what you folks think.

here is what I have done:
remove plugs, spray KROIL in each of the cylinders...wait three days, go and turn the cooling fan, and I get the above result...12 to 8 turning, but no full revolution.

Next, I removed the valve cover and sprayed Kroil all over the rocker gear and down the valve lifter tubes....still no go.

Lastly, I have poured Marvel Mystery oil all over the valve gear and down same lifter tubes.....that was this afternoon...I am going back in the morning.

SO, what do you folks think?
I want to get it to turn by hand before I try the starter...don't want to bend a valve in a perfectly good engine.

Also, where can I find all of my engine ID numbers? Cab ID numbers?
thanks
Kevin
very happy new daddy of a 61 Apache!

When it meets the resistance you refer to take a brass hammer or wooden mallet and tap the the rocker arms where they contact the valve stem. The valve should bounce a little if it is stuck it will just be a solid thud.

tossing a brass hammer in my toolbox tonight, I will give a full report tomorrow pm....thanks
Kevin

Make sure the tranny is not in gear and nothing is binding the flywheel some times little varmints will build nests in the flywheel dust cover. When trying to turn the motor over leave the plugs out so any excess oil can escape and you don't fight compression. There is a good chance you have stuck valves, they can be a little tricky to free and make work again. A good soaking on the valve stems and light tapping with a plastic mallet they can be loosened. This will take some time and patients to free them from 40 some years of varnish and goo. Once the motor will make full revolutions by hand with all the valves working free you can use the starter with plenty of lube to coat the cylinder walls and valve stems. When it will turn freely on the starter do so several revolutions to remove excess oil for the cylinders. At this point your ready to fire the old beast after the points and plugs have been cleaned and properly set. Don't try to run it off the gas tank till it has been drained cleaned and refilled with fresh gas. Also some of the penetrating you poured into the cylinders will find its way into the crankcase so the oil should be changed.

Kevin;
Your're right by not using the starter until you find the problem. When you turn the fan, can you see all of your valve springs moving? Granted- they won't move much in that short of a fan revolution,but watching one at a time you should see some movement. I've taken a rubber mallet and smacked the valve spring cap to see if they are free. Otherwise I guess i'd take off the head and check for a stuck valve, but sometimes just that jar with the mallet will pop a froze valve loose.
Your vin. plate should be attached to the left upper hinge pillar, and your vehicle ident. plate is located on the left inner cowl panel. I hope this helps.

thanks for the helpful suggestions, i will do exactly what you suggest.
one thing though, can you describe the hinge pillar...is that the hood hinge or door hinge, what side?
also, what inner cowl area? can you describe a bit better for a brit car guy?

I hope this truck will one day tow my 62 MGA....thanks
kevin

I would go ahead and pull the cylinder head and not try to start it after it has been "stuck" like that. I know you might get away with no damage but you are taking a chance of breaking a piston ring or two on corroded cylinder walls or having a valve stick again and bending a pushrod or worse. I think its better to open the engine up, evaluate the condition of the cylinders and the cylinder head, and make any necessary repairs before firing it up.
Joe

The truck VIN# will be on the left door pillar, the engine # will be stamped on a machined pad just aft of the distributor.

One time I put a clutch in a truck, and it wouldn't turn through after words. It would only turn so far. It was a straight six also. Finally had to pull the head and found that carbon buildup had been so bad that it literally fell off the head onto the top of the piston. This engine had sat for a good while before I installed the clutch. Might tyr some air into the spark plug holes and see if you blow anything out. Otherwise, I'm betting you will have to pull the head to find the problem.

Whenever an engine sits idle for some time, at least one set of valves, sometimes more, will be open to the atmosphere. Air, and moisture cycles in and out of the cylinder due to temperature changes. It's not uncommon to find one cylinder heavily rusted, to the point the piston meets a big obstruction, while others show little or no damage. I remember a very low mileage Oldsmobile 350 with rust pits so deep in one cylinder it had to be bored and sleeved, even though it was possible to re-ring all the other cylinders to standard bore size. That one cylinder had been open to the atmosphere through an exhaust port, while the others had remained sealed up. It only sat unused for about six months!
Jerry

engine turns!
freed up nicely with a light tap of the starter, plugs out, one round of tapping with brass hammer.
now to change the oil and clean carb, gas tank..yada yada yada.

thanks
Kevin

Engine started on ether!

now to get the gas tank cleaned out and clean the acorns out of the radiator...
thanks for the help.

K