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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,294 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 65 | I purchased this truck in North Carolina and had it shipped to CT where I live. It runs great but it was the frist time I have purchase an older truck. When I got it home I started inpecting the body and every piece of metal has a rust hole in it. I can't believe I didn't see most of the damage. I am really concerned about the cab corners. They are rotted out. Where do I start after I buy the cab corner? Should I look for a specific type of welder or should I go to a autobody shop and they will weld the cab corners on. Also about how much does it cost to sandblast the exterior. Can tthey do the whole truck or just parts? | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 61 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 61 | Well, I guess if the cab corners are rotted out, there will be more damage in other parts. E.g. the breaks, the engine, the transmission, the steering, paint, wiring etc. needs a restoration. You should decide if you want to make a rebuild or a complete frame up resto. There are many Restoration Guides and that should be a first step to make a decision. I recommend to invest a few $ before you start.
'59 Apache '67 Mustang
| | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | The whole truck can be done for about $175 as to the body work a Mig welder is the best for body work and light metal. Whether you do it or have it done depends on how good you want the job and your abilities. I would think you could do some of it. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 | Keep in mind it will need to be primed or sanded right after sandblasting to keep from flash rusting. I'd try to acess all the damage and cost to fix the truck before spending any money. | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 | Here's what I would do. Jack it up and do a complete brake inspection. Make sure, in your head, that you fully trust the brakes. Do a complete tuneup including changing all the fluids, tranny and diff included. Then tackle the body. I bought a little Lincoln welder, and the MIG kit. I've been practicing on an old fender that I can cut up and weld back for fun and training. I'm in a delay mode right now as we're getting ready to move, but I plan to do it all myself, including the paint.
But get your brakes and drivetrain going, and take it for a ride. People appreciate old beater trucks as much as fancy restos.
"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
| | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hey TPB, I am working on a 58. Mine had a lot of rust hidden by bondo and tar etc. Here is a list of places to check out besides the cab corners that i had to fix or replace: rocker panels steps lower front fenders where they meet the door pillar pockets inner and outer hinge plates front bed panel tailgate front fenders in corners bedside panel stake pockets toe boards next to kick panel covers Most of these issues can be dealt with patch panels and alot of the smaller areas can be cut out and you can fabricate pieces to put in. If you blast the truck be prepared to find lots of holes and damage and keep in mind that once you do this it is harder to sell than as it is now. I found these articles really helpful: http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0208ct_replacing_doorsills_rocker_panels/index.htmlhttp://www.brotherstrucks.com/techa...%20CORNER%20PATCH%20PANEL%20INSTALLATIONGood luck!! its fun brian | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I would expect that every 58 out there (with rare exceptions) would have the cab corners rotted out. that's about the easiest to replace.\
Add to the list of trouble spots;
Lower door hinge area Bottoms of the doors Fenders above the headlights Above the windshield (mice love it there) | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 234 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 234 | I just had mine painted by a respected (though slow) local painter. He found a rusted cab corner on driver's side after stripping off the old paint and (mostly) minor rust spots. I think that the cab corners are going to be bad on just about every 50's or older Chevy. If you don't feel up to body work yourself, I recommend local car club meetings to get an idea of who has done other classic owners right and who to avoid. I second the idea of changing the fluids (including the brake fluid) inspecting the brakes (lines, pads, wheel cylinders, etc.) and making any necessary repairs so the truck will be safe to drive while you save money and decide just what direction you are going to take towards restoring the truck (full frame off resto or "hey, it's a truck not a caddy" resto).
58 Fleetside, 235, "The Old Buckin' Bronco"
| | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hey Builder, I am thinking some drainage on these babies really could have helped these trouble spots.
brian | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | Hey Builder, I am thinking some drainage on these babies really could have helped these trouble spots.
brian The AD trucks came with drainage holes in the cab corners. After 10 years or so, they were filled with dirt and never cleaned out. Then physics took over to create new holes. | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Actually, Cletis, I think Chemistry takes over: H20 + Fe eventually yields Fe(OH)3, good ol' Iron Hydroxide, a.k.a. rust...
Regardless of physics or chemistry, you are absolutely right though, the holes do form.
Tb, you have some good advice here, and I can assure you that lots of online help is available with the accumulated knowledge represented above. Keep after it, we need a few more 58's in the Gallery.
Richard 58 3104
Richard 58 3104
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Brilliant. We can use 59's as well. Sorry
Richard 58 3104
| | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hey Cletis,
Should I drill holes in the new inner and outer cab corners that I put in.
Thanks, Brian | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | THe thing that rots out the cab corners is that they do trap dirt, which in turn holds moisture. It always seems to be a great place as a "catch all" for nuts and bolts, tools, rags, etc, which all can lead to moisture issues. The best thing you can do is to clean those cab corners out once and a while. When you park the truck for the winter it would be a good idea to make the cab corner cleaning part of your "winterizing" on your truck. | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hey TPB, I finally got some pics posted showing some of the rust repair I just did on my 58. This was my first time repairing a truck. Richard, Here is a 58! http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561697792mXirVg | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 143 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 143 | As Cletis indicates, these trucks did have drainage holes in the bottom of the corners--so , yes it would be a good idea to put them in AND be sure to clean them frequently--that way they will stay dry and , if well painted, never rust. Glenn | | |
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