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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 | I don't know if I'm supposed to ask about vans here but, y'all are so darned knowledgeable that I thought I'd take the chance.
In what order should I check things?
1969 Chevy Van. 250 engine, I think.
It has a new fuel pump, new starter and a clean working carb.
It starts as in fires up but it does not continue to run.
What should I begin checking? Compression? Pull the plugs and see if they're toast? Why would it start but not continue to run? Clogged fuel filter? Lines?
I need to formulate a basic run down and for some reason today my brain is on the non functioning side of the spectrum.
Thanks in advance. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Timing. Sounds like it's off, maybe retarded too far.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 77 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 77 | Hi, being not real familar with this particular van, but going on previous experience, you might check wires and or ballast resistor, gm has a 12 volt wire that runs from starter to coil on some models that only operates when starter is engaged and relies on power thru another wire to keep running, not sure what years this changed, this does sound like a bad ballast resistor tho, might be a place to start! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I,m with 66step. If it starts & dies as soon as you turn the key back to the run possition It has to do with the resister. This model has it built into the harness. Check the connections on the back of the ign. switch. Check the bulkhead plugins. The resister wire runs from one of the bulkhead connections to the coil. It is a thin wire with a braided insulation. You could turn on the key with out starting the engine & put a test light on the coil. It should have current to it although it may not be real bright. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 202 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 202 | I have had this problem and others I know did and if what was suggested does not do the trick then the ignition switch may be bad. Sold more than one of those years back for just such a problem. To me the switch should be replaced and you will more than likely solve your problem. One way to prove this is to use a jumper wire 18 gauge or 16ga to positive terminal of the battery then to the + side of the coil, then start the engine in the usual way and when you let go of the key if it still runs, its the ignition switch! Also the timing could be way off as Longbox55 mentioned. Another possiblilty is the condenser may also be bad. Many people overlook this little part and can cause more than one symptom. Usually when bad they won't start. Sometimes they start and just as quickly stall. I had one that throttled up and down while just sitting there without me touching the gas. It would take a momentary charge then quit and do this while idling like I was pumping the pedal. Weird! I put in a new one and that stopped it. Put in the old one and it did it again. Bizzare! Sounds like. Usually when a fusable link goes bad they don't start at all unless there is just enough strands in the wire to conduct enough voltage for a start but not enough for running. Thats possible. I hope I helped out in some way. Henry
Last edited by Henry G; 11/19/2007 3:36 AM.
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