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#33164 10/30/2003 3:45 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
I want to have the front drums sandblasted so I can por-15 them afterwards but concerned about hurting the threads of the wheel bolts. Is it hard to remove the bolt assembly from the drum? Also, will this assembly need to be put back in before I have the drums turned?

Is it wise to sand blast, paint and then turn the drums, or turn, sand & then paint?

Living in America,,,,,so many choices


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,839
I just discovered that 2 out of 3 rivet that holds the lugbolt assembly to one of the drums is missing. Does anyone know who sells these ?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428
If the drums aren't scored badly or out of round I wouldn't have them turned. Just have them checked to make sure they're in tolerance and then scuff them with some sandpaper. Don't worry about sandblasting the studs. It won't hurt them. Like Metal Man says,why Por-15 if you sandblast. Just clean and paint.Rust-O-Leum would work fine on a budget with the clean drums.

Can't help with the rivets,maybe the shop where you took the axle can help.

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
You can buy steel rivets at the hardware store. Sandblasting does remove and deform metal. I would find some cheap hose that fits snugly over the threads. We use bead blasting to improve threads, but sandblasting is to hard to control.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 182
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 182
Hope you keep us posted on this...
With so much disassembly (TWO front ends!) what is your preference for penentrating oil? Did you break anything?

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2002
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One drum is still riveting to the hub. The other was deriveted by previous owner. Guess what the de-riveted drum is warped and cannot be turned. The other drum turned perfectly. Thus I've ordered another drum/hub set from one of our favorite fellow bolters in Az for a very good price.

Lots of GUNK penentration oil and paitence. Nothing broke yet, but keep in mind, I haven't removed my '50 assembly from the truck yet. Those spring U bolts look like a challenge.

Rainy day today. Good day to spend on this project.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 504
5
Member
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Posts: 504
If it were me, I would take a Sawzall to those old spring U bolts . Replacements are cheap.

You will be able to trust the threads on the new ones to hold tightly..


Bill M
53 GMC Hydra-Matic

Home Page
http://home.comcast.net/~bd97/index.html

When you argue with a fool, two fools are arguing..
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
Good point,
It would be a lot easier to not be forced to cleaning up old threaded bolt ends, etc, when the replacement are readily available.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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