The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Floor Replacement

Morning!
I have a '50 3100 that would probably be easier to drive while standing through the cab, then to actually attempt to sit in it. I'm looking for opinions on replacing the floor. Most of the passenger side is fine and intact. I was going to just make a pan out of sheet metal as opposed to buying one and installing it. Would anyone mind sharing an opinion or two? I'd appreciate it. Thanx.

Buy the floor. I bought the pieces for mine from classic parts they were well made and fit really well. For the cost and hassle of trying to handfit I don't think you are saving any money or time doing it the way you have suggested. JMHO.

Thanks Brad. I'm kinda hard-headed and would rather take others opinions in this situation as opposed to doing it my way and wasting valuable time and cash.

Buy the floor. I just replaced most of the floor of a 55 Ford F100. (Yeah I know, please forgive me. But it was for a person that ) He bought the floor pan and I used pieces of it that I need in order to have a solid floor.

After I got it installed and painted, it looked like it came from the factory.

It was a whole lot easier than trying to fabricate a floor out of sheet metal.


Spend the money for the floor. You'll be glad you did.
Frank

My truck has a cobbled up floor pan from the PO and there are some things that you should know. A real floorboard serves more purposes than just keeping your feet off the pavement. It has holes and pockets for pedals and seals and access panels. Don't waste time trying to make your own, it's not worth it. You'll wind up spending more time and money and you won't be happy.

After much deliberation (and lots of opinions from you guys) I'm going to go the easier route and just buy a pan. Do you know if they make halves or is it just a whole pan?

Jenny..Check your front cab mounts too. They don't come attached to your replacement floor. You have to order them separately.

There are left and right halves available for purchase. I got mine from the Truck and Car Shop. You made the right decision!

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/

Think carefully as you lay it out, if areas of the toe board around the pedals are good go below them, most of the repro floors do not have all the little details of the original the same goes with inner cowl panels they are close but not exacts make cuts that remove the rust but enable you to still make a decent weld. Also companies like Eastwood and TIPS make seam sealer products that make the floor watertight (very important if a daily driver).One last consideration is body panels usually look best with a butt weld this is not always necessary with the floor since it is mostly covered you can use lap joints which are much easier to fit and weld. Harbor freight sells small C-clamps about 2-3" of throat if you cut these in half and weld a small piece of steel to the end opposite from the screw you can tack this to the floor and then close the c-clamp against the panel once you are done tacking it in place loosen the clamp and just work it back and forth till it comes loose. I am talking a small weld here maybe a 1/4" is all. These work great where a vice grip can't or won't get.

Jenny,
I have to replace the floor in my 54 and I bought the halves to replace it with. I haven't done it yet, but that seemed to be the way to go! There's a lot of information available on it. Good luck, and be sure to post how it goes!
Samantha