The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop removing the clutch and transmission

Okay, I did this once a long time ago on a '69 Dodge van. But can someone give me a rundown on how do-able removing the clutch & trans from my '53 1-ton will be? I'll be underneath it on my back, no jacks. Is this a 5 swear word job? Ten, twenty? Any tips on steps? I want to get something done before the cold weather hits.

(Previous posts were about the clutch and trans not operating the beast. With the 235 running smooth now, I hear a rattle inside the clutch or trans. It seems something's broke in there)!

Hy Colorado51three-quarter, the job would be very similar to your van. Does your truck have a closed or open driveshaft? if it has an open driveshaft, just remove that from the rear axle,remove whatever is connecting the driveshaft to the back of the transmission, and there might be a steady bearing in the middle of the shaft that you should unbolt from the frame, then take off your flywheel cover, you should remove the floor [cover] over the transmission, and probably remove the shift tower to make it easier to manuever, now there are 2 bolts that go towards the engine at the top of the transmission, an 2 bolts that you access from inside the bellhousing at the bottom of the transmission that face toward the transmission, support the transmission with a jack before you remove all the bolts, once all the bolts are out the transmission should come back until the input shaft is clear of the bellhousing and then down. The clutch removal will be the same as your van, there could be 6 or 9 bolts holding the pressur plate to the flywheel, hope that helps.

Hey, that sounds do-able. Open drive-shaft, I'll give it a try tomorrow. Many thanks!

John

These old trucks are very forgiving about repairs. Shouldn't take more than half dozen "dagnabits" to get it out. Working without the benefits of a clean, cement floor and some heat when you want it, make it easy on yourself when you put it back together by cleaning the bolts and everything as well as you can. Sure makes it easy to start them by hand without the grease and dirt. You'll be back up and running in no time.
DJ

The biggest "#$%#$%#$" will be putting the trans back in without a jack. You will be bench pressing the trans, and the splines will not want to go in.

Working on a jack, I generally put the trans in top gear and turn the output shaft with a pliers to get the in put shaft to turn slightly to line up.

30 years ago i would have said "go for it" no jack is suicide. a jack is cheaper than a trip to the emergency room with a smashed and bleeding ? you can always rent one

I take it it is a 4 speed. You will have to take the tunnel cover off the floor. Those are too heavy for 1 man but 2 can handle with one guy inside & one underneath. He can hang on too the gearshift but it,s better to put a chain or strap under a couple of cover bolts. I,ve heard of setting up a wood fixture inside to support it or hang a strap around the top of the cab.

Mission accomplished! (Phase 1 anyway) I identified the problem, which is simply that the clutch facing is shattered:

http://edj.net/mc2012/1953clutch.jpg

I made a scaffolding of boards so I could slide the trans back and away, without completely removing it. I should be able to slide it forward after fixing the clutch. Now the question is, how much of the clutch assembly can be saved? I noticed the little axle sleeve piece is broken. Do you guys think this part is available? Can the clutch simply be resurfaced? What do the stovebolt gurus say?

Only two dagnabits, a bloody knuckle, and three hours wrestling iron.

Hy Colorado51threequarter, how does the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate look? If it isn't nice and smooth you should have them resurfaced. You can buy a new or rebuilt clutch disc. The broken piece, is it the piece that bolts to the front of the transmission? That piece should be available used if you can't find a supplier of it new. Good work so far, keep going, and keep us informed please.

Shop Shark,
Thanks for your help. The broken piece is pictured here:

http://edj.net/mc2012/clutch2.jpg

I think it is a "pilot bearing/bushing" and is a few bucks to replace. The surface of the pressure plate looks smooth, don;t know about the flywheel as its in the dark. My clutch disc is shattered and I'm looking on eBay. I need a 10-spline, 11 inches across. Maybe you can take a look at the several I found on eBay. I'm just not sure if there are other specs I should know about, like the spline hole diameter? These look like they might work, what do you think?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...itemZ200164096498QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-...itemZ320176158226QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Thanks,

Hy Colorado51three-quarter, Firstly my name is 3B, shop shark is a title you get after you answer or post a certain number of questions. The broken piece is your pilot bearing a few bucks at your local parts store, they've been used for years. As for the clutch disc, you can purchase that at your local parts store as well just tell them you want an 11" disc for a chev. with a 10 spline, hope that helps.

3B,
Oops, guess that's why i'm a Wrench Fetcher. Okay, I'm well on my way to rolling down the road and shifting gears. One final thing, I've seen clutch discs that are listed for my 1-ton called 10 3/4" instead of 11" - same thing? Thanks,

Hy Coloradothree-quarter, It probably is but compare it with your original, try and get the same thing. Generally the larger the disc the better, if you have the force to clamp it to the flywheel, hope that helps.