The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed bed boards??? idea?

Hey, I'll post this in the bed forum too, but...
A friend is building a 65 Chevy shortbox show truck. I mean, this thing is a profesionally re-done EVERYTHING and will be for sale soon. Anyway, we've been kicking around the idea of building the bed floor out of plastic lumber... instead of buying a bed kit or making a metal floor or bedline or anything. Just wondered if anyone here had tried it. I think it's a great idea for longevity and strength and at this point, this truck is SO perfect that the cost isn't going to be a huge issue. Any experience??? I mean, this is a $20,000 truck.

RMillburn,

Don't know if this is of any help, but here's a previous discussion on the topic.

Previous discussion on Fake Bedwood

Plastic? Oh no, please don't do it. Please........
please, please.

REAL WOOD!! is the right way to go for a truck that nice!!

If you want to go plastic, get some of the Corian (sp?) granite looking counter top material and throw in a couple of flame or racing strip inlays.

My $.02 Buddy

The guy who owns Stockton Wheel has a really cool '56 Ford stub-nose flat bed truck that's been hot-rodded. (lowered, chrome Alcoa wheels, etc).
He actually uses the truck, too, and what he did for the flat bed deck boards was used boards made of recycled rubber. Not only can you not hurt them, but with tire foam they look brand new, stuff doesn't slide on them, and I would think all that rubber is going to quiet down the truck a little bit.
I don't know where he got them, but they're readily available for the commercial truck industry.
Might point you in the right direction.
Brad

I took a look at the Stockton truck, the bed floor looked great for a flatbed. If you want a nice looking pretty floor then you may look for something else. The rubber stuff was nice, but would probably not look good enough for a $20,000 pickup.

I would use real wood, and start asking what the best finish is for truck bed wood.

I would use real wood. As far as finishing is concerned I've always used five or six coats of a good marine varnish with a high UV filter. My theory is if it's good enough to withstand the elements in a marine environment it's probably going to work in a truck body. Another factor in this is ease of repairing/refinishing. If you have some exotic plastic that got dinged or scratched, can you duplicate the original finish? With spar varnish this isn't a problem.

Slomotion:

That Spar Varnish method is recommended in the Bed Forum.

Some people even use poly on top of the spar varish.

Sorry, I didn't check out that forum, I was just following this thread. I built boats for a few years and was just drawing on that experience.

I can picture a teak deck as the bed floor, as in a top line pleasure boat.

I can't imagine a $20,000 truck debating plastic over wood. Done correctly, the wood will last 50+ years. My 55 1st series still has ths the original wood bed and it's a daily driver, mo like a 20 footer than $20,000.

My two shiny shiny pennies worth. I'm all for custom upgrades, but the bed has to have real wood to retain its Stovebolt integrity.

The plastic wood isn't as strong as real wood. It is designed for 16" o.c. deck joist spacing - spanning between steel cross sills on your truck will flex too much. Besides, I agree with other comments here - if the truck is show quality, it needs a wood bed.

Another vote for real wood here, Brian

There is a Brazilian hardwood called Ipe, pronounced "e-pay". This wood left untreated lasts a lifetime, hard as nails, slip-resistant when wet, etc. I believe this is the wood used in tractor trailers. Google Ipe.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS


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IPÊ ADVANTAGES

Why use IPÊ over
other decking materials™

IPÊ is an environmentally responsible choice which naturally resists rot, decay, insects, and mold without the use of toxic chemicals used in other decking products. It is naturally fire resistant and has been awarded an 'A1' rating.

Additionally, IPÊ is an incredibly strong, dense wood, harvested from naturally sustainable forests only. It has very high wear durability in daily use, and is resistant to splintering and checking.

It's also beautiful!

How long will my IPÊ deck last™

IPÊ has been awarded the best decay resistance rating available - "HIGH 25+ years", however it has been known to last longer, there just isn't a higher rating!

How does IPÊ weather™

Weather has little to no effect upon the structural integrity of IPÊ wood. The sun will eventually transform the wood from it's original reddish-brown to a beautiful silver patina.

Is IPÊ subject to
insect invasion and damage™

Due to the dense cell structure of IPÊ (all heart wood) it's not only naturally resistant to insects but also to decay, rot, and molds.


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SEALANTS

If I seal my new IPÊ deck,
how long before it
will need re-coating™

This is dependant upon the climate in which you install your IPÊ and the quality of sealer used, but generally in the Central Texas area, sealant should be applied yearly. We recommend Messmers Deck Sealer - available from Everwood Decking - used in conjunction with a latex end sealer.

Do I have to seal
my new IPÊ deck™

No, it will weather naturally to a beautiful silver patina. The boardwalk in Atlantic City has been 'natural' for many years, and still looks great.


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COST

How does IPÊ compare to
other decking material in cost™

IPÊ is an economical natural alternative to other woods when the entire life cycle of the deck or other outdoor project is considered.

When viewed over the lifespan of the decking, the material/labor costs are in line with much less quality decking materials

It is competitively priced with other premium decking products such as redwood and Western cedar. However, when the additional benefits of IPÊ (select grade wood, superior strength, extended lifespan, resistance to checking, splintering, fire, mold, and insect damage, etc.) are weighed, it is by far the superior product

I work in a hardwood mill. Consider using quarter-sawn white oak. You will love the grain appearance, and because it is quarter-sawn, it will never warp or cup. If you really want to knock some socks off, try using Lyptus. This is a hybred euclyptus grown by Weyerhauser in South America. It is harder thank hickory, very dense and looks like mahogany!! Just some ideas!!

Lobo49, Whats the cost per board foot of Lyptus. Where is it available? Was going to use Cherry, but this Lyptus sounds interesting.

Weyerhauser has dealers around the country. Price is slightly more than Cherry. We finish it into dimensional lumber and mouldings. We are located within 100 miles of Washington, PA. Check out bairdbrothers.com.

Thanks, Lobo49, might take a ride to Canfield to check it out. I like the coloring of the wood. Does it darken in time like cherry?

Wood has no plastic in it; plastic has no wood in it. What is "plastic wood", if not an oxymoron?
Tomo

I didn't buy a Stovebolt so I could pollute it with plastic. It's just not right. The wood and real metal is what makes these trucks so great.Now go hang your head in shame and apologize to your truck for even thinking of putting plastic on her.

I would use real wood or at the very least, steel. I used to work in the lumber industry, and everyone that has commented so far on it is exactly correct, it does a heck of a job withstanding the elements, however, it is very flimsy and brittle. In your defense, such a short piece of it (the length of a truck bed) it would be a little more stiff than say a 16' piece. Also, the plastic lumber seems to be awfully heavy. At least any of the stuff I have ever had any experience with.

If plastic is what you decide however, best of luck to you! Build it your way.

Or phenolic laminate 1/2" thick or so. Mills and works like lumber, won't fade or crack, dense, resists chipping and scratching, and available in any type of finish you can get laminate in. Wilsonart has it. I have a friend with 63 with a phenolic bed that looks just like a bowling alley.