The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Stovebolt48, Hotrod Lincoln, baldeagle), 61 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,018
Posts1,055,339
Members48,419
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#28927 03/18/2002 10:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 31
5
Member
Member
5 Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 31
I just went to a tire place to get my tires taken off the wheels to refinish them. The problem is, my 3/4 ton wheels are 8 holes with split rims. It seems like a hassle to keep split rims since few places will easily or cheaply service them. So, is it a better option to buy new non split rim wheels?
Thanks.

#28928 03/18/2002 10:13 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
T
Bondo Artiste
Bondo Artiste
T Offline
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
I once had a 1951 1 ton GMC Stake Body truck that split rims. No one in town would touch them when I wanted to have new tires installed. I know that if a tire technician is not properly trained on how to mount and dis-mount a split style rim it can seperate under pressure and cause severe injuries. I saw a old tire ad that had a split rim in a cage like contraption while a tech was dis-mounting the tire from the wheel for safety purposes. I would think that one peice rims would be they way to go, maybe you can find a nice set of used ones to work with smile

Phillip
1951 GMC 9300 Half ton
Centreville Va


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
#28929 03/19/2002 1:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11
Check this link for info:
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=000261&p=

I finally stayed with my split rims. I like the look of the 3/4 ton hubcaps and a local tire shop that handles big trucks had no hassles with my split rims.
Murph
...............___
_=======| :p \___
|(.....)_(O)____(....)c
...(O)...............(O)
'49 GMC 3/4

#28930 03/19/2002 6:00 AM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
As I've said before, you have the two-piece lock-ring rim. Far safer to work on than the split rim. I have mine worked on at a tire shop that handles truck tires. $5 to dismount, $5 to mount is what I pay. My problem was getting 15" tires that were big enough. I wanted some mud grips in a 7.00-15 radial, only ones we could find were made in Taiwan. Am switching my rear wheels to 16", have installed the hubcap clips, finished painting yesterday. Will get some 7.50-16's mounted after the paint has cured. I bought two rims from a 91 for $40. And the inner part of the rim where the hubcap sits is the same size as the older rim.

Problems with this change is the front wheels. The setback (distance from the back side of the rim to the mounting face) is deeper on the newer wheels. This will cause the tires to hit the tie rod ends. I calculated an 1-1/4" spacer is needed to clear, too long for safety without overloading your lug bolts on the front axle. So I will run my stock 15s on the front and 16s on the rear for now.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#28931 03/19/2002 5:04 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
I found one-piece 16 inch 8-bolt rims which would fit the front of my 3/4T without hitting the tie-rod using 235-85-16 tires. They were 6 1/2 inches wide. I don't know what the set-back is (and can't tell you now since we're on the coast for a week w/o the '48.) One tire shop had those while the others had 7 inch wide rims which would not work.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#28932 03/20/2002 12:04 AM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Wally - Let us know. I assume those are aftermarket wheels? Also, the 7.50R16 is about an inch narrower than the 235-85R16.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#28933 03/20/2002 1:56 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
Fred, I used 235-85R16's that were on my D**** 3/4T for a year. I also wanted them tall because the truck sat up high on the 7.00x17 tires that were on the truck when I got it. Are the 7.50-R16 tires as tall as the 235-85R16's?

I'll measure the set-back when I get to back to Montana.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#28934 03/20/2002 6:52 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
The 7.50 is .1 taller, .6 narrower. Not much of a difference really.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0