The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Truck buying advice needed

I havn't bought my first old truck yet, but am planning to buy a chevy advanced Design soon. I don't know much about engines so I thought I'd ask the pros. I want the truck as a daily driver, and also to do light farm work. I'm looking for the best possible gas mileage, ability to cruise at highway speeds, and enough power to haul a 1/2 ton load without a problem. Any suggestions on the type of engine I should look for? Also what about gearing and tranny? Appreciate any help I can get.

Welcome to the board,
Since most AD were built to accomidate the typical speeds of 45-50, you will not find anything totally stock that will travel at today's modern highway speeds. Thus you will either get a truck (GMC or Chevy 1/2 ton) which the previous owner has already improved the gearing by either putting in 3:55 gears into the stock enclosed driveline rear end, or has replaced the enclosed driveline with an open driveline and a newer rearend with tranny that combined has higher gears for faster driving.

I'm still driving with enclosed driveline and 4:11 gears, traveling at a top speed of around 55. Soon I will be installing Patrick's 3:55.

Anyway, you'll find lots of info here on the bolt. Go to search and explore.....

If at all possible, find a halfton (Chev 3100 or GMC 100). Most aftermarket repro/upgrade parts are made for the halftons. Suspension and brake parts for heavier rigs are hard to find and expensive; I spent 4 months looking for a rear drum for my tonner panel.

If you're after a Chevy and really lucky you can find a '55 first series, which will have an open driveline instead of the torque tube and full-pressure oiling instead of the splash-oil babbit pounder. A common upgrade for the early Chevs is to swap in a later 235. Smart folks just buy a GMC.

You will need to swap the rear gears if you hope to achieve freeway speeds... again, the halfton will give you a variety of ratio options where 3/4 ton and bigger do not. Both the 3- and 4-speed transmission have a final drive of 1:1 and they're tough as nails; there shouldn't be any need to swap that unless you're looking for overdrive. If you're going to push the top speed up, seriously consider a brake upgrade as well.

All the AD's were 6-volt; GMC had positive ground until '54. A well-maintained 6v system won't give you any trouble, just be sure you've got solid connections and good ground. If you want to add modern accessories, the simple way is to convert to 12v.

Once you find your truck, get a shop manual. It will take the mystery out of your project. And don't hesitate to post "dumb questions" here, odds are there's a dozen others scratching their heads over the same issue. The only stupid question is the one not asked.

Good luck, and welcome to the 'bolt.

Hi, first, have fun. I have found a truck in good shape costs more than a rust bucket. The rust bucket costs more to restore than the truck in good shape. And unless you are a skilled person as far as resoration, you would be way ahead paying for a truck in good shape. If it has been fixed by a person with no skill, you can bet you'll have to go back and do it over. So in my world, I would get the best truck I could. I've been on both sides and a truck in good shape will save you time and money.

royo is right - buy the truck with the least amount of rust damage. Rear cab corners are not that tough, inner and outer cowls can be a big investment in time to do them right. Lots of people blue wrench and snot weld the parts of the truck that dont show. These repairs when done poorly can also affect door alignment. Better to get a low rust unmolested truck.

Owning both a 3-speed and 4-speed AD,if I had a choice I would opt for the 4-speed. The 4-speed is much easier to drive in traffic,shifts better and with the unsynchronized 1st gear in the 3-speed, you either have to double clutch or come to a complete stop to put it in 1st. Takes some practice to get used to it. Low gear is also unsynchronized in the 4-speed,but you very rarely use it. It's nice to be able to shift freely through 2nd,3rd,&4th which is almost the same as the 1st through 3rd in the 3-speed.

Hello, I thought I would ask my questions here instead of a new thread, since I too am looking at buying a AD truck. I currently have a '54 chevy in poor to really poor condition. The cab could be used after replacing floor, cab corners, etc. Maybe both running boards, one maybe both rear fenders, both inner front fenders are usable. Otherwise it's in really bad shape.

However, I do have the option of buying a '53. It's in pretty decent shape, it looks fair. All the parts are there, including all of the trim, which is in decent shape. It has some bad bondo spots, and the doors and hood are not lined up correctly. It needs new floor pans, and a rear bumper, bottoms of doors need patched. It does have a 235 and it runs. Needs a new master cylinder and the motor smokes pretty bad. The transmission shifts fine. All in all it's probably worth what he's asking for it.

Here's my problem. He says he has a title for it, but the VIN plate is missing. There is a blank plate pop riveted in it's place. So there's no way to properly match the truck to the title to make sure it's legit. I've got some concerns about it being properly titled. Although I havn't seen the title myself. If the VIN plate was there and matched the title I would probably be going to the bank for cash. Any opinions/advice?

I am right that there's no way now to identify this truck right? Replacement motor, and no numbers on the frame right?

If you are looking for a daily driver in a AD truck with good fuel mileage I would recemend a full pressure 235 or a 250 or a 292. These 6cyl engines will give you the best mileage. I would also look for a truck that has an open drive line. This will give you the best options for transmissions and rear ends ratios. Look into the overdrive transmissions or a 5 speed from a newer S 10. You could also look into the 60's style overdrive tranny. The reasion for the over drive is you could get by with out changing the rear end ratio from 4.11 or 3.90. This will get you the best mileage and afford higher speeds on the highway.
Whatever you decide be prepaired to change some things. You will never find a truck that has everything you want. There is all kinds of advice you just have to sort through it and decide for your self. It is a very good advice to get the best truck you can afford. You will have fewer issues to deal with.
This probably adds to the confusion but that is part of the fun.
Good luck and have fun.
Tom

Thanks for the advice FatFender. Is there a problem buying a truck with a missing VIN plate, so no proper ID?

Here is some pictures of the truck i'm looking at.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/engrhawg/
Any opinions/ideas would be appreciated.

No, you can buy replacement vin plates and stamp your number on it.
You might also think about upgrading the suspension and adding a small block engine for that AD your looking for. Check Ebay, they seem to always have plenty for sale there.

Thanks for the info.

I would like to use the truck for a daily driver to and from school (I'm a teacher). My plans include doing a frame swap or upgrading the suspension. I want to have disc brakes on the front at the very least. This won't be a show truck by any means. I want something I can go fishing in!