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#28185 12/21/2003 2:48 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | I'm replacing the points distributor in my 64 292 I6 with a new (rebuilt) HEI unit. I've done this on numerous V8s, but this is the first I6 I've done. I removed the old distributor and noted the position of the rotor. I positioned the new distributor's rotor to the same place (pointing toward the fuel pump, just for reference), then turned the oil pump so that the slot lined up with the HEI distributor. I stabbed the HEI into place and threaded the locking bolt. Then I replaced the plug wires one at a time, starting with #1 and then going around the distributor, making sure I kept the same order (183624) and ran a new wire from the IGN circuit to the BATT connector on the HEI. All's well except the thing won't start. I got a couple of backfires out of the exhaust, so I figger I've got spark, but I'm wondering if the plug wire positioning is different on an HEI distributor than on a points distributor. I believe that on a V8, they're off by one position clockwise...I'm just not sure about a 6. I could go find TDC and see where the rotor's pointing, but it's dark and cold now, so I thought I'd ask if anyone had a picture of an HEI on a 230, 250 or 292 with the #1 wire labeled. Thanks, Ray Buck http://www.chevyasylum.com | | |
#28186 12/21/2003 6:32 AM | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 | Ray, Sounds like you did every thing right. I've replace several points distributors with the HEI in the L6. The only problem I've found is that were the screws that hold down the cap jut out. Will limit how far you can turn the distributor for timing. You may have to move the plug wires around to compensate for this. On mine I've got the #1 sparkplug and #1 wire on the cap pretty much inline with the center of the distributor. Hope this helps.
Larry 68 C20 327 daily driver 63 C20 292 Camper truck 65 C10 ? Custom Cab AC,PB,PS,$flasher
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink. | | |
#28187 12/21/2003 8:14 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | Thanks, Larry. I appreciate the feedback. I got a picture of a 250 I6 in a 63 Nova with an HEI from a guy on the Nova mailing list. It appears that I've got the thing turned about 60 degrees counter-clockwise from the way he has his. So if the timing is actually that far off, it would sure explain the popping thru the exhaust and stuff. I ran into that same problem with the cap retaining clips. I'm just gonna have to do like you did and move things around until I can get it lined up properly. But I think that it's gonna work out fine once I get it pointed in the right direction. It sure looks funny with the rusty old motor and the brand new HEI and Accel Super Coil. One guy looked at it ans asked if I was installing a flux capacitor. [img] http://www.chevyasylum.com/64c10/64C10_044r4.jpg[/img] Thanks again, Ray | | |
#28188 12/21/2003 6:58 PM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,208 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,208 | When installing HEI, it doesn't matter where the direction is facing. What does matter is that #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire terminal on the cap. From #1 terminal, wire as you would any other type of cap using the same firing order.
If you have the firing order correct, rotate the housing around and see if it fires off. If it won't, go back to start and set #1 cylinder at top of compression. From there it should be easy to get it running. Joe | | |
#28189 12/21/2003 7:15 PM | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 55 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 55 | Joe nailed it. It doesn't matter which way the dizzy or cap is facing, so long as the dizzy is wired up and set in correctly. It's the exact same process as on a V-8. Rotate engine thill at #1 on TDC compression stroke, drop dizzy in, not where the rotor button is, the wire the cap accordingly. I know the process, but it still wasn't that easy for me when I dropped a new dizzy in my 250. I ended up out 180 a couple times, then off my one plug wire on the cap. I would just put the engine at TDC compression the pull the cap and see what it looks like. Hope this helps. John
1968 Chevy C-10, 250 and 3 speed on floor, Hedman headers, Offy intake, Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, HEI 1966 Chevy C-10, motor and tranny went into the '68. Waiting to be restored.
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#28190 12/22/2003 2:38 AM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | Which electronic unit did you buy and how much did it cost? I am thinking about getting one for my 62, 3/4 ton, 235.
Tab
delete my account and pictures
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#28191 12/22/2003 2:45 AM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Tab, 230,250,292 HEI are different from the older 235/261 engines. There are several companys selling modified HEI's that will fit on 235/261 engines. | | |
#28192 12/25/2003 12:35 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | The HEI I used was a Cardone rebuilt unit from Checker Auto. But as someone said, it's different from the 235 unit. However, there are many different conversion kits. If your distributor and coil are in good shape, I'd go with a Pertronix setup. They're only about $70 and work great. I changed the distributor because the bushings were junk. Mallory makes an HEI conversion unit, but I'm not sure they have one for an I6. But they're out there. I finally got mine running by using the "hold yer finger over the #1 plug hole while turning the motor over" method. Turns out that I had stabbed the distributor 180 degrees out (as usual.) If the laws of the universe are holding true, there's somebody out there who gets 'em dead nuts on everytime, cuz I always seem to get 'em 180 out the first time. Anyway, I connected all the stuff up, jumped in, and it fired up on the 2nd crank. Runs great now. I even bought it a Christmas present of some Indian blanket seat covers ( http://chevyasylum.com/64c10/64C10_045r4.jpg). Now all I need is to drop 4 inches or so it front and rear, add the AFB 4 barrel carb and split exhaust headers with glasspacks, paint it semi-gloss black with red wheels and a soft tonneau and we got a rat rod pee cup truck. Should make a great pit truck on the salt flats next year. More fun than an old man otta be allowed to have. Ray [img] http://chevyasylum.com/64c10/64C10_047r4.jpg[/img] | | |
#28193 12/28/2003 5:30 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Originally posted by ChevyAsylum: I kept the same order (183624) and ran a new wire from the IGN circuit to the BATT connector on the HEI.
All's well except the thing won't start. [/URL] No wonder it won't start. Hooking up to the #8 plug on a 6 cylinder. [img] http://www.fradsplace.com/icons/icon12.gif[/img] Get that wire off the #8 cylinder and hook it to #5, and with the engine sitting at TDC on the compression stroke, point the rotor to #1 plug. It should be close enough to start.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#28194 12/29/2003 5:05 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | I dunno why I keep transposing the 5 and the 8. Might have something to do with the fact that this is the first Chebby sicks that I've had since the 60s...everything else has a V8. But, since I connected the right wires to the right cylinders (actually the problem was that I had the distributor 180 out) it's been runing fine...even in 20 degree weather with 24" of snow. I hate winter. Ray ChevyAsylum Webcam | | |
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