The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Axle bearing replacement on '72 C10

I have a grumble on the passenger side that appears to be the rear axle bearing.

I looks like I need to disassemble the brakes, remove the backing plate, remove the diff cover, pull the c-clips, pull the axles, pull and replace the bearing, and put it all back together.

I'm wondering if this is a couple hours or couple days for a shade tree mechanic. Does anyone who has done this have an idea what I should expect?

You've got the basic procedure right, but there's a few steps that will trip you up unless you pay attention to details. The spider gear assembly and pivot shaft must be removed to gain access to the C-clips, by removing a locking bolt in the differential carrier. Slide the pin out, and remove the spider gears, including the thrust washers behind them. Push the axle shafts toward the center enough to remove the C-clips. It might be necessary to remove the brake drums to let the axle shafts slide in enough to free up the clips. Inspect the surface of the axle carefully. ANY roughness where the bearing rides makes it necessary to replace the axle, as the bearing runs directly on the surface of the axle shaft. An offset bearing is available to put the load on a different area of the shaft, but I've had less-than-great performance out of that fix. Pry the grease seal out of the axle housing, and use a slide hammer with a special expanding adapter to pull the old bearing. Some parts stores have a rental tool to do this, otherwise it's a real hassle to get the old bearing out of the housing. The new bearing will be a snug fit in the axle housing, usually needing to be gently tapped in with a hammer and a correctly-sized driver or a big socket to prevent damage to the new bearing rollers. Don't put any force on the rollers themselves, only the outer race. Install a new seal with the lip facing toward the inside, and lube it liberally with rear end oil. Put some lube in the new bearing while you're at it, to protect the bearing until oil can migrate down the axle tube from the rear end during normal driving. Be sure to clean any dirt or shavings out of the axle tube before installing the new bearing. I like to use a rag dampened with solvent, wrapped around a broom stick. Works great!

BTW, it's not necessary to dismantle the brakes. The axle will slide out of the center with the brake system intact.
Jerry

Of course it gets really fun when the bolt breaks as soon as you start loosening it.

Thanks Hotrod, I appreciate the help!

No broken bolts Chuck. I don't have time for that!

As always Hotrod Lincoln is on the money. And the bolt only breaks some of the time. I use a thick washer cut in half jammed between two nuts on my cross head puller to bring the bearings out. If the bolt in the rear in keeper seems tight tap on the end of the keeper holding the spider gears using a brass or aluminum punch.

It came apart easily, as described.

One of the axles is in trouble, so I've ordered a new one. I was afraid this project would not happen in just one day...

I've often wondered why somebody doesn't go into business repairing those axles. It seems it would be simple to turn, or grind the axle bearing area to a slightly smaller diameter, and press a hardened sleeve over it to restore the fit. I've never heard of anyone doing it, but it seems there would be a big market for repaired axles. Reducing the diameter by a few thousandths shouldn't affect the strength enough to matter, and I really hate to trash a good axle over a scored bearing area!
Jerry

I would imagine the axle could be turned and sleeved but could it then be sold cheap enough that they would sell?

I don't know what margins look like in the auto parts business, but if the new axle I just bought for $129 cost the supplier $99 and the manufacturer $65ish I'm thinking it would be hard to repair an axle cheap enough to save the consumer any money.

On the other hand, there is a machine shop locally that is hiring blind machinist for about $15/hour. Maybe you could keep cost of materials under $15 and turn them out faster than one each hour.

So I'm postulating a repaired axle for maybe $70 against a new one for $130. I'd probably still choose the new, but maybe other people would choose the rebuilt...

I told my son the bad axle will soon be bolted to an old brake drum or wheel, and with a plate mounted on the differential end, the axle will become a grinder stand.

Do you suppose I can sell those at a profit?

Don't they make repair bearings with offset surfaces that locate to a non-worn area of the axle?

I've never used these (I'll be having that pleasure in the next year or so) but I've heard a lot about them from the folks on the Nova list.

I've tried the offset bearings, and they work, sometimes. With modern, CNC equipment and a little setup, I believe the production time on a repair job could be cut to about 20 minutes each. Maybe I'll work up a prototype, and see if I can interest some rebuilder in the process.
Jerry

A couple of useful things I've learned in this process.

First, LMC Truck's catalog made choosing the correct bearings and seals easier than any of the other catalogs I had on hand. I've not used them much, but was impressed that two-day air actually resulted in fast delivery of the right parts.

Remove the seal before trying to remove the bearing. My first effort was to remove both as a single operation. Once I decided not to be lazy, and pulled the seals out, the bearings came easily.

Schuck's rents a bearing puller for $6/day. I spent more time driving to and from than using the tool, and was very pleased with the result.

I have a seal driver that has a metal handle, a steel plate, and then a bunch of plastic adapters to fit the seal. I found the correct adapters to hold the OLD bearing in place and was able to use the seal driver to drive in the bearings. I tried the socket approach first, and the seal driver approach was much better.

I hope my experience can help someone else...

Update on the project: Bearings and seals are in place. The new axle arrived yesterday, but I had to run out and buy studs for it, I didn't think to pick them up earlier.

I decided while it was apart any way that I would refresh the brakes. I discovered that the adjusters are rusted solid. I should have new ones tonight, and then this thing will go back together at last.

I hope to drive it tomorrow, and next week it embarks on a 3,000 mile round trip hauling a car to Colorado and then returning to Washington.