The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Clutch installation problem

I wonder if anyone can offer suggestions to tell me what went wrong. I removed the stock transmission and clutch from my 53 chevy 3100 to replace the clutch. I had been hearing some throwout squeals once in a while and rattling. Also wanted to install a new rear engine seal while the transmission was out. Anyway, everything went back together according to the book, after installing the new clutch pilot bushing, disc and pressure plate the transmission slid in with very little positioning and bolted up fine.

My problem is that now I don't think the clutch disc is releasing from the pressure plate properly. I can see it move away (viewed through the little space between the flywheel and the pressure plate assembly between the bolts) from the flywheel when the pedal is pressed but power continues to run into the transmission so I can't get it in gear.

I raised one rear wheel and with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal depressed I turned the wheel by hand. The clutch made quite a rubbing noise and the wheel was difficult to turn.

Before I take it back apart (a job I don't look forward to)maybe someone who has had a similar problem would care to comment.

Thanks for any advice
Doug

One pretty common mistake a lot of mechanics made back when there were a lot of stovebolts on the road was putting the clutch disk in backwards. Look at the old clutch disc, and you'll see there is a little bit of difference in the front and back. If the side with the springs sticking out a little further is installed toward the flywheel, the springs will rub the flywheel attaching bolts, and the clutch won't release. Been there, done that! I'm not saying that's your problem, but it's a definite possibility.
Jerry

Pete
I agree with Hotrod Lincoln. I also have been there and done that. When the buffer springs are against the flywheel bolts, you will probably be able to see some space between the flywheel and the clutch disc. Maybe even be able to slide a sheet of paper between. Anyway, you probably do have the disc in backwords.

Truck Tinker from Talking Rock

Thanks guys, I also have that suspicion but I needed someone else to tell me a classic goof had been made. I knew that there was a correct side to go toward the flywheel (the side that said "flywheel side") but I may have switched it around in a moment of disorientation. I hope it is that simple. I will pull the tranny and clutch out tomorrow night and see what it looks like. Will let you know.
Pete

I don't have any experience with the clutch but I do have a question: Can you describe your experience with the main seal removal and installation? I might need to do one myself - I did one on an old **** years ago - leaked - then I had a garage do it for me right. Don

You guys were right-that was the problem. No damage done. Took a couple of hours to get it apart and back together correctly but at least now it works. If there is a next time I will be more careful.

54 5-window, This was my first seal installation but I had read somewhere (I think in the Tech tips) that it was easiest done if the transmission was out so that the crank could drop a little when the bearing cap was removed. I would probably first try it with out removing the transmission if I had no other reason to have the transmission out. The hard part was loosening the bearing cap bolts- they were really torqued on there. But once they were off the upper half of seal pushed right out using the bottom half as a chaser.
It was a neoprene seal so that is what I replaced it with. I pushed the top half around the groove, dabbed a little sealer on each end, joined the bottom half and put the bearing cap back on. The seals have a correct side to face toward the engine so read the instructions. Torque specs called for 100-110 ft lbs. on the bearing cap bolts so you have to get your foot against something.

Pan gaskets are a lot of fun, too, especially the end pieces. I'm just hoping I slowed down the leaks a little. Read Oly's article in tech tips - he did a good job of explaining the procedure to replace the rear seal. Good luck with yours.

Pete

Pete keep us up dated to how this is all working.

thanks