| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
35
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,327 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#25766 02/13/2002 10:09 PM | Joined: May 2000 Posts: 52 Member | | Member Joined: May 2000 Posts: 52 | I saw there was a topic on this posted before, but i want to know if there are any strict guidelines to follow. If there has to be a certain degree of bend, or certain size of pipe. I have been thinking about this quite a bit, and it doesn't seem like it would be overly difficult to weld a set up. What are your thoughts? | | |
#25767 02/13/2002 11:09 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | I have been looking into it. Clifford has full specs on the headers they sell, and I was just going to copy theirs. They even sell a flange kit which has stubs welded to it which makes it easy. You will need to bolt the flange to the motor when you weld so that it doesn't warp. You will need two differant sizes of tubing if you are doing a stovebolt since the outer two exhaust ports come from one cylinder and the inner two come from two. You can buy mandrel- bent J- or U- tubes almost anywhere. You cut the U in the middle and that is your pre-bent tube. You can buy pre-fabbed collectors but since you are just merging two tubes if you are going dualie exhaust you can just cut the end of one tube at the proper angle and cut a hole the proper size in the other tube and weld them together. If you are going single exhaust you either do a 4-to-one collecter (V8 type) or a tri-y set up- 4 into 2 into 1.
I am going to do one eventually once I get my 235. I may go turbo though which would be somewhat differant. When you fab headers you want to weld them so that the bead inside the tube is minimal- you want them as smooth as possible inside. Get some extra tubing and practice. I am going to weld an oxygen sensor bung into mine so I can monitor air/fuel ratio and tune my carb. I am planning on doing a mild forced induction setup with either an Eaton M90 supercharger (from a Buick 3800 or Phord 3.8) or twin Garret T25 turbo's feeding double deuces on a custom manifold. I should be able to get 300 HP easy with 6-10 lbs of boost.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#25768 02/14/2002 1:33 AM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 316 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 316 | Dubie, check out Headers by Ed . You can get kits with all the tubing (and the different bends). You tack it up and weld them yourself, or you can buy them ready-made. Caution: this is not cheap like a set of Hedman's or Hooker headers  .
*** GMC ***
| | |
#25769 02/14/2002 6:48 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,191 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,191 | You can also by factory mistake bends. Check out ( www.STAHLheaders.com ). They sell boxes of bending mistakes 40 to 50 bends per box for $125. Thats alot of bends! Joe | | |
| |
| |