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| | | Forums66 Topics128,156 Posts1,057,020 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | Where the hell is it at? Mine needs rebuilt, and I heard the kits are available at NAPA . One other thing.....I spotted a chevy/GMC phone number on here while browsing one day and I'[ll be darned if I can find it again. You give them your vin. #'s and they give you your trucks history. Pretty cool...Thanks, y'all Terry1218 | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Terry1218,
Can't you follow the pedal...it should lead you to the master cylinder.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | Stuart, If it were that easy I wouldn't be wasting my time writing and looking for someone's advice who has had one apart before. Terry | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Stuart's just messin' with ya a bit. The M/C is under the floor boards. If you lift up the floor mat, you'll see a plug, about 3" in diameter. That is the filler access hole to get to the filler plug on the M/C. The M/C itself is bolted under the cab, to the frame. It's held on by 2 bolts. The pedal arm does have to be removed to get the M/C off. Depending on the condition of the one you have, you migh go ahead and get a price on a replacement M/C as well, just in case you're is too far gone to rebuild.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | Stuart, If it were that easy I wouldn't be wasting my time writing and looking for someone's advice who has had one apart before. Terry But it is THAT easy!  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | be sure to check the pedal for "slop" in them on the pin. If they wobble to much you can buy the brass bushings to go in them to tighten them up and make them work smoother. You should notice a grease fitting on the bottom of the pedal as well for greasing the bushing. Just info... | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Terry1218, I was being sincere and not trying to be a smart a$$...sorry. It just seemed obvious to me that the master cylinder would be at the other end of the brake pedal. Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | sometimes we don't know stu
ha ha :whistle:
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Stuart's reply was logical and correct. My convoluted suggestion would have been to start at any wheel cylinder (right front would have been a good choice) and trace the brake line back to the master cylinder; however, this might have led the searcher in multiple directions.
Now that the question has been clearly answered in a few ways, here's another general suggestion: A Shop Manual is quite useful for anyone who owns an old vehicle, and the 47-55 Factory Assembly Manual is often quite useful (both are available from all the usual vendors in the Links section).
Tim | | |
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