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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
I just made a trailer using some spare AD stuff I had around. The frame is a '54, the box is from a '55 1st and the axle came from a '53 GMC but is a later GM pickup 12 bolt.

All three of the donor trucks sat at about the same stock height. I feel like the trailer sits four or five inches higher compared to a stock pickup. Of course I don't have a stock pickup around here to compare it to...

Has anyone else made a trailer using this kind of stuff and had similar issues? Have a solution?

I mostly built this because I had the parts and knew it would be useful, plus I needed some practice welding. Now that its done I'm wishing I liked it better. I may have to buy some steel and make a frame that sits where I want the trailer to ride.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
Most of the vehicles weight is gone, it's going to sit higher,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Jul 2004
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Steve,

There must be an obvious reason you didn't mention sticking lowering blocks in to drop the height of the box...I must not know what the reason is.

Stuart

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
L
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
Fill it full of rocks :whistle:


1948 AD Pickup
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
Quote
Originally posted by 48bigtrucks:
Most of the vehicles weight is gone, it's going to sit higher
That's what I figured, but I don't want it to be the answer. I'm hoping for one I like better.

I suppose I can pull some leafs out, or shorten the spring mounts. I don't really want to use lowering blocks because I'd like to keep some ground clearance--even as I lower the trailer...


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Feb 2000
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L
Shop Shark
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Posts: 769
I am assuming from your comment about lowering blocks that the springs are under the axle?

Joined: Mar 2005
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How about putting a front axle with the steering disabled under it? That would lower it and retain the suspension travel.

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
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This is a 1/2-ton AD, the springs are under the axle.

I though about using a front axle but mounting it became more complicated than I wanted to get into. This was supposed to be a one day project that ended up taking two and a half. Using a front axle likely would have turned it into a couple weeks...


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,029
B
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Using lowering blocks to get it to the stock ride height would still give you stock suspension travel IMO. You now have much more than stock suspension travel, so it should be no problem. Removing springs to bring the height down would give you less weight capacity.

Joined: Oct 2003
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
Its not suspension travel I'm concerned about. Its getting the springs that much closer to the ground. I plan to use this trailer in some rough territory where it might matter.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
May have to remove the factory springs and install flatter trailer springs, like from a mobile home trailer. I bought a complete axle with springs and wheels and tires for $65.00.
It's worth a look,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 564
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 564
The springs hanging and extra 3 inches below the axle shouldn't affect your ground clearance all that much. You're not going to go rock-crawling with it, are you? If you are, you need to rethink and keep the trailer tall.
This may sound goofy, but shorter tires will bring it down a little bit.
I'd buy some three-inch lowering blocks and bolt those in. Taking leaves out is not the answer. You're going to end up walking in the bed, and if you're springs are tired or soft, it's like walking in a canoe. I did the same thing with a '62 Ford box last year. Junk yard springs made it stable for walking in, and I mounted the housing up on top of the leaf springs (between the springs and the frame). It might sit a little high for my taste...but I'm not taking it to car shows.

-Brad


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