The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Any problem replacing frame rivets with bolts?

Trying to get the frame and other parts on my '72 cleaned up and it would be MUCH easier if I could grind off the rivets for shock perches, leaf spring mounts, etc. and replace them with bolts when I'm done with rust removal and painting. My top concern is always safety, so is there a problem with this idea? If not, what grade hardware should I use to replace the rivets?

Thanks,
Brent

no problem if you use grade 8

Bill

Grade 5 would probably work ok but it's always better to be safe than sorry. If you can get grade 8 use them. Use your grinder and then a large punch and knock them through. I've tried most everything short of a nuclear blast and the easiest is the grinder route.

Thanks for the quick replies! I appreciate the info. Now I can get to work again and get away from the computer.

Hy Brent R and guys, A couple of words of caution, rivets should properly be replaced with "bound" bolts, that is bolts with no thread in the area which passes through the frame, that way you have a solid shank for the frame pieces to bear against. You can use driveline bolts if you can find the appropriate size, or you can use longer than required bolts with the appropriate shoulder, and cut down their overall length to fit. You should also use stover lock nuts to secure them, hope that helps.

While normal grade 8 bolts will probably work they are not the best for the job at hand.

If you must use bolts, be sure they fit snugly in the holes. You will usually need to go one size larger than the rivet you removed. The reason is that rivet holes are punched with a slight;y sloppy fit, then the rivet while hot squishes out to fill the hole. Your bolts won't squish, so properly size the bolt holes for a snug fit.

I have used "frame bolts" and the matching nuts. They have a washer like head on both the bolt and nut, they are grade 8, and the nuts are the crimped Stover type lock nuts. I buy mine from a big truck parts place, they have larger ones, and order the small ones for me.

I personally prefer to use hot rivets for anything on a frame that does not need to be removed again. I reinstalled about two dozen missing, damaged, loose, or improperly installed 3/8" hot frame rivets on my 48 two ton. If you really want to do it it can be done. I much prefer rivets over bolts when a rivet was there to start with.

If your frame should be put together with bolts they would have used them to start with right?

Search for rivets on this site, we have had this discussion before.

Grigg

Brent:
Below is a link to Aaron's Cap Screws. They carry a selection of bound frame bolts in grade 8.
http://www.aaronscapscrews.com/search_frame_bolts.htm
I'm not convinced manufacturers don't use hot rivets for speed on the assembly line as they use them for many parts on the frame where strength would not be an issue.
I could be wrong after all, I'm married...

I did a Whole frame for a 50 chev half-ton,one time..old frame was shot,,so i used a 3/4 ton frame(with half-ton crossmembers)...All bolted-up..Needless to say..the 3/4 was longer..had to Cut-off part of the back of that for rear bumper...Worked tho..What a Job!!!..

That link, aaronscapscrews.com is for the same kind of frame bolts I have used. Again, I get them at the local big truck parts place.

Grigg

Grigg -- about how much are you paying per bolt when you buy locally? That site wants an incredible amount of money for frame bolts, but if I could afford to buy them in bulk (case of 1000) I could get them for a fraction of the price. ( link )

WOW...Aaron's really does screw..ya! I looked at McMaster-Carr, and can find what appears to be the very same grade 8 bolts and flange nuts, but for half the price. Unless these 'frame' bolts are some special animal, I would go elsewhere.

Stuart

Sometimes removing the rivets can be difficult. I have found rivets where the holes didn't line up or were of different sizes when they were installed. The result was the rivet mushed in to fill all the spaces. However, when you try and drive it out, it hangs up because of the problem holes. The rivets that go through more than two layers are difficult to remove too.

To remove rivets, the best way I've found is with air tools--at the least, a cut-off wheel. Cut an line across the head of the rivet, and then chisel the head off in two pieces. If you have easy access to the rivet head, cut an X across the head. Go deep, all the way through the head. You can chisel off the head with a cold chisel and hammer, though my knuckles prefer using an air hammer.
Then a tappered drift to bang the rivet body out. Again, I've also got one of those for my air hammer (bought a Craftsman set of air hammer attachements several years ago).
I replaced the spring perches on my '97 Dakota with lowering perches, and drove it for about 30,000 miles before it was stolen. Did the same on my 2001, and I've drive that one for 160,000 miles, and the grade 8 bolts are doing just fine. I check them every now and then, but have never had to tighten them, and they aren't loose in the hole. These are on the bracket that is holding the leaf spring to the frame.

-Brad