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| | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,757 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Was going to convert my front brakes from Huck to Bendix following the tips I have read. I priced out the shoes, cylinders, drums and flex hoses and it comes to $270.00 plus whatever labor I pay for. I have backing plates and bearings. The question is can I live without the upgrade? I seldom drive above 40 mph, usually around 30. I don't drive freeways (none here) and I don't drive in heavy traffic as a rule. Probably do about 2000 miles a year. The back Hucks are rebuilt and I have a new master and solid and flexible brake lines throughout. The present brakes work very well but I have this idea in my head that I should upgrade but it will be pricey. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | What kind of loads do you carry? If you are running around empty rarely above 40 and rarely in any significant traffic I think you are fine.
I'm a big fan of good brakes, but it sounds like yours are good enough for what you are doing with the truck.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Don't carry loads at all except a spare and a tool box. I am not hard on brakes and I have changed my front discs twice yet not replaced or even seen the rear ones in my 81 Malibu in 13 years. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | G'day Bill,
I still have the huck brakes on my 41. They work fine as long as you keep them adjusted. Given the mileage and the type of driving you do, I don't think it would be worthwhile changing to bendix.
All the best
Bob | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 102 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 102 | Are the huck style brakes really that undesirable, or unsafe? I know they are tough to service but I reallly didn't think they were too aweful bad.
Birge | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 92 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 92 | Off subject....Birge are you on shoeboxford.com ? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 | I've been driving Huck's for over 40 years and never had any trouble with them. I didn't even know I was to expect trouble so ignorance is bliss in my case. I've rebuilt them when needed and kept them adjusted. All I can add to the above posts is that if you think Bendix brakes will give you peace of mind then go for it, otherwise your present 'haunting' may always be with you.
littlebuddie
1948 AD Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Some great answers thanks folks. I was looking at the parts prices for the Bendix conversion as noted in my first post but replacement parts for the Huck brakes are more pricey and the drums are almost non-existent. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | I need more information. Do you need brakes like right now? If the Huck brakes you have now are in good shape, keep them. You may never wear them out considering the driving you do.
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Just finished a complete rebuild of my stock Huck brake system for my '50, 3604. Every thing wire brushed down to bare metal, all cylinders re-honed, re-sleeved the rear cylinders, new linings, all new steel and flex brake fluid lines. All the parking brake linkage from the rubber foot pedal back to the brake shoe link got the same treatment, cross shaft, levers and bushings included. This system works just as good as it did when new now. Stops straight as an arrow, step on it REAL hard and I can lock up the breaks. This was a stepping-stone from the mechanical brake to the Bendix style. The Bendix system allows the shoe to float and to wrap up into the drum, sort of a wedging action this gives you a little more of an assist which translates to less peddle pressure than is needed for Huck brake, which required a little less peddle pressure than the mechanical brakes. And of course the next step up was the power assisted Bendix and finally the jump to disc brakes that had been proven in racing for many years. Just a word about disc brakes, big advantage was that they didn’t fade when hot, but a throw back was the peddle pressure required was greater than the Bendix, with out power assist they are a bear. I’ve been driving my old gal 45 and 50 on a regular basis and really like the nice full hard pedal I get out of the Huck brake. If ya care to see the rebuild I posted some pics in Webshots: http://rides.webshots.com/album/555161678EhIoCb?start=36 http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2770730910098611668EJJKmH Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | Olblu49, just one necessary panic stop even from 30 to 40 MPH will prove the need for the best brakes you can get. I always have changed the Huck brakes to Bendix on every old Chevy I have had. I do my own work and scrounge parts wherever I can so the cost is negligible. Now I have Chevelle disc brakes on the front which is even better for extended traffic driving. For only one stop now and then the drum style Bendix's are hard to beat. Good luck whatever you do, just preserve the AD truck./ | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Chevman32 from all I've read this is just a bolt-in except for enlarging the holes in the spindle and the steering arm. Is there anything I have missed? I did read where you may have to enlarge the center hole on the Bendix backing plates and also some say that you have to use the Huck hub. I have drums and backing plates from a 53 and all I plan to change are the front brakes. and for 49-Chevy-truck, the present Huck brakes are working fine. Rears are all new. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | Olblu49, if you are really concerned about your front brakes, take it out on a lonely stretch of road, get it up to speed and stomp hard on the brake pedal. If your front end parts are solid, you will be able to make up your mind prety quickly. Of course you may want to consider disc brakes. It would only cost a little bit more.
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Disc brakes are always an option but I think putting them a stock front end is a bit more complex than I am led to believe. | | |
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