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#237450 07/18/2007 6:53 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 101
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 101
I have in my opion found a numerous, to numerous in fact, amount bolts which are flatheads on top and nut on bottom. These dang these are rusted solid. The head strips and then you have to pull out the mallet and chisel and whack away for a while. (Old school style no power tools for me) grin Now I have found a trick for these buggers by simple sheering the bolt in half. There small enough that if I twist the wrong way and quick enough the bolt will snap before the rust gives way and allows the bolt to spin freely. So heres the question I am of course replacing these darn things with what though I don't know. In the metal that can support I thinking those bolt that have a square underneath the head allow me to only have to use on wrench if I have to remove them(I forget there name) but what should I use for the rest. I don't want to use hex or square bolts I want something smooth thinking philips head although those things are pain too. Ideas, tips, would be appreciated

Sorry about the longness of the post,
Thanks

#237451 07/18/2007 9:22 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 595
1
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Posts: 595
it sounds like your removing carridge bolts that are holding the bed on. just replace them with the same bolts and use "anti-sieze" on the threads. you need to keep in mind the bolts your removing are 50 years old and have been exposed to the elements. that way when the next guy removes them he'll say "so thats how a truck was built?"

#237452 07/18/2007 10:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
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Ex Hall Monitor
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Could be talking about the good old stovebolts that these old babies were put together with. If you don't want to use phillips head you can buy torx head but most hardware stores only stock slot & phillips panhead style bolts.


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#237453 07/19/2007 1:37 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 101
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 101
Ok and no there not carriage bolts. They connected the fenders to running boards. There were 10 or so on each side. Then they attatched the fenders to the side plate thing which was connected to the pointy piece of body underneath the grille and so on. They are everwhere although a few have been replaced by some copper wire. And think it holds up better then that plastic crap they call cars now.

#237454 07/19/2007 4:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,028
Square head drive screws are much more reliable than philips head as fara as stripping the head upon removal.

To be clear the screw looks just like a philips head but instead of the crossed slot there is a square recess in the head. They are difficult to strip out, though it can be done. I am sure you can get them at a local hardware store or home depot (Lowes has a good selection of fasteners as well) in zinc plated or stainless if you are concerned about rust.

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

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RB53
#237455 07/19/2007 8:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Rich - called Robertson head, a CDN invention, and all anyone uses up here, we're always cussin those US machines with slot and even phillips screws, Robertson heads are near bullet proof, always work with the correct size driver [#1-4]

sounds like Delux is talkin of run-of-the-mill rusty hex bolts

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

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#237456 07/21/2007 2:26 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
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'Bolter
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I know I use the ceramic coated drywall type screws with the square drive for all my wood projects. They are particularly strong and esay to remove as well. No strip out.


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53

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