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| | | Forums66 Topics128,087 Posts1,055,976 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 | Have a 1949 1/2 ton chev.Heater motor will not run.To pull it out do I have to take the core and all out?
Jim Geurts
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 390 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 390 | i m not 100% but i dont be lieve so.Have you checked to see if you have power at both sides of the switch?Ron.
1942 1\2 Ton 1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5 1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter 1960 Biscayne Sedan 1965 G/10 panel van 1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are... My progress pics | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 | The switch was gone when I bought the truck.There are three wires that run from the motor.I ran the power to all and it did not run.Was wondering, is one the power wire and two of them for the switch? That would mean that two would have to be connected to run the fan?
Jim Geurts
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 | check Deve's antique truck restorations, I think a link is here on the site, has a nice article with great pics on restoring AD heaters.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 54 | I pulled my 49 1/2 ton heater the other day due to excessive leaking. There apparently after several types of heaters, mine was bolted to the firewall with three studs/nuts. I just unhooked the two hoses, took off the three nuts, unhooked the heater wire at the switch and the two air ducts, and the whole unit came off. You can't get to (my) heater motor without doing this. It looks like the motor fits in the center of the round heater core and should pull right out after taking off a couple of screws, although I haven't separated it yet.
Dave | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 14 | After I looked at the deve's site I see how it comes out.Now if I know how to wire it I might not have to pull it.
Jim Geurts
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | The core is held in the sheet metal housing with a couple of small screws. Once it is out there are 2 nuts on the flat part of the housing which holds the motor in place. You will have to remove the fan by loosening the set screw. Remove the fan but do note the direction it sits on the shaft. There is also a small sleeve on the shaft with a slot in it. That comes off with the fan blade. If you lose the shaft they are available at any electrical motor shop. To wire mine I ran a ground to the metal housing and a wire through a fuse to a heater switch. Bill | | |
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