The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk can I sandblast these parts?

the sandblaster is coming tomorrow and I have everything set out to sandblast. I need to know if these items can be sandblasted, though:
-drive shaft with pinion and bearings removed
-rear axle housing and third member (torque tube)
-oil pan
-bellhousing
-heater housing

Oil pan, bellhousing and heater housing for sure. On the others, just make sure nothing is sandblasted that has moving parts, like bearings or bearing races, that sort of thing. Electrical tape is pretty resistent to sandblasting and glass beading, so you can cover areas you are worried about, if you don't shoot them directly for a long time...be careful those areas will be missed.

Also make very sure you remove ALL the sand from your finished pieces. I ususally pressure wash all parts a couple of times, even if this is with a pressure nozzle on a regular garden hose, then blow them out REAL good. Don't want sand where it doesn't belong. Wash, blow, wash blow, inspect.

Wrap whatever you don't want blasted with duct tape (or electrical tape^^).

Tomcoe, freshly sandblasted parts you wash with water? Won't that promote rust?
I usually just blow it out with compressed air or thinner in a spray gun.

Good Luck.

I would not sand blast anything that holds oil.
Theoretically the sand particles will get stuck in the metal and with heat and vibration will work themselves out. I think that this true, I have blasted something, cleaned it really good, then done some straighting with hammer and dolly and sand still comes out. So, I would be very hesitant to blast an oil pan, even just the outside. If I did I would try my best to tape everything up and clean when done.
On your list, bell housing and heater housing are safe, the rest I would try my best not to sand blast, although if you are very careful you can reduce the risk of contaminating your mechanical assembles, but not eliminate it.
Grigg

I use to work at a shop and we sandblasted (glass beaded) all engine parts including many pans. I would be more concerned about areas you can't get to good and that is why I was hesitant on the driveshaft and axel housing without a clear pic in my mind.

Colin, yes with water. I blow them off right away however. When you are blowing off parts there are two stages, one for the liquid to come off, and a second you can see the metal actually dry out and lighten. The water is vital to get the dust off, especially on parts like the pan that will enclose bearings. I will almost always paint shortly thereafter to prevent rust from forming. Initially however it will be fine until it becomes damp again.

Does soda blasting do the same thing? what kind of particles are involved in soda blasting? Is it still as bad as sand as far as getting in the mechanical assemblies?

My engine builder sez DON'T sand blast(or bead blast) engine parts. We're lucky to have a metal cleaning shop 3 hours away in Portland. I'm having them do my oil pan.

If you're rebuilding the engine, take the pan and bellhousing to the machine shop and have them dip them with the block and head. Usually they won't even charge you to do it.

I hear soda blasting only removes paint, no rust.
Walnut shell blasting is the "approved" method of blasting internal engine parts, but won't remove much rust.

I worked on an aluminum V-16 that had everything bead blasted by the shop that rebuilt it a few years ago.
With the engine partly disassembled for some repair work I found glass beads stuck in all sorts of places. looks like it is only a matter of time before the engine fails, probably by wiping out the Babbitt bearings due to the glass beads. It's a shame, by glass beading the engine parts someone has just about ruined a rare and expensive early aluminum engine.

Let me repeat, I would never sand or bead blast internal parts of any mechanical assembly.

Grigg

Interesting Tom,
Thanks.

I used wire brushes (the ones with the stiff twisted bristles, in wheel and cup form) in a angle grinder for my frame/axel/engine/tranny...you name it. Removes the build up paint, rust, and dried grease like a charm (somewhat time consuming though).

I also use a wire wheel. filthy work though, I think all grease was transsferred from iron to me