The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How do I reseal a sunk float?

I suspect the brass float on my Rochester B decided to sink over the weekend. I had a massive float bowl flood on the road, took it apart and cleaned the needle and seat, and it lasted a block before it flooded over again. I run a fuel filter, rebuilt the thing 6 months ago, and the inside of the carb was spotless.

How does a person refurbish a brass float that looses its seal? I have heard of people drilling them and filling them with foam. What kind of foam?

you "suspect"? was the float full of gas the first time you opened the carb? just as likely the seat is buggered - is the needle new? if the float is actually leaking, you could try resoldering the seam, or other spot where it leaks - if you're sure you can do it right w/o adding a lot of weight

prolly the expanding spray foam used for insulating touchup in houses is what's meant, but hafta be real careful or too much will turn the float into a ball shape that won't work very well! also, hafta reseal the float anyway as the gas would prolly disolve the foam - easier to find another float [if needed]

Bill

On my Dads '56 Merc we took the float out, found the source of the leak, scuffed it a little with some sand paper so solder would stick, and soldered it up. The pipes in your house's are brass, the same solder and flux work great. just make ABSOULTELY sure the float is rinsed clean as a whistle before applying flames to it, trapped fuel fumes in a little brass container tend to go bang!

Needle and seat were brand new six months ago and the viton tip and seat looked perfect. The float felt heavy when I pulled it out, but I was on the side of the road and I haven't taken it apart yet. I picked up a new kit today but the float is not available from Napa. I'm a pretty good solderer but I was concerned about trying to solder a gasoline soaked float.

Yet another job for j.b. weld.If you can find the hole ive used it with good results on 2 different floats.

get the gas out, dunk it in water to fill [and find holes], drain again, make sure it's empty and dry [hair dryer], use an iron to solder rather than a torch

Bill

Bought a brand new Wagner brand brass float from Dan's Classics in Portland several years back. I think they were $10-15 bucks. I was going to buy from NAPA but it would have been a special order. Dan's had them in stock so I bought from him. I didn't trust soldering the old float but sounds like it has worked for some.

I'll try him if I get desparate, last time I went there I wasn't too impresses with his prices or service. Thanks.

Try this page from our website. Scroll down the page to the section on brass floats.

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_parts.htm

Jon.

Thanks, carbking, that helped a lot.

Had the same problem, turned out to be to much fuel pressure. Had to put a fuel press regulator in line set at around 2 lbs. to stop the flood.

Well, I pulled the float last night and it was full of gasoline. I found a new one locally for $15 so I'm going to use that.

For anyone wanting to repair one, the method in the link carbking referred you to works just like they said. I would recomend a different mothod for getting the gas out.
Set the float down next to a small heat source such as a light bulb. I have one of those big old style soldering irons that I use to do the repair. I set the float next to it and a couple of hours later, it will be bone dry.
I did one about a month ago on a Carter AVS I just put on my 292.

Richard-- A Carter AVS on a 292? What is the AVS's CFM? And what brand intake do you run?
I have an AVS on my shelf, but I was told it was for a big block mopar muscle car. I used to run the 390 Holley and was thinking of going to a Carter AFB 500 CFM or the E-brock clone for my next build up.

I have the smaller version that came on '70-71 340 and 383 mopars. Primary bores are 1-7/16" and secondaries are 1-11/16". CFM? That's a good guestion. For every source that says it's 550cfm, you can find another one that says 450cfm. The 440's used one with 1-11/16" primary and secondary. Every source says it's 100cfm more than the small one even if they don't agree there.
I have the non-heated Clifford, but I bolted a plate on the bottom that I'm running the coolant through. I'm going to restrict the flow. The manifold is a lot hotter than I expected.

Carter AVS's were rated at either 630 CFM (smaller primary) and 750 CFM (primary and secondary same size).

Jon.

I fixed it last night by replacing the float. It looks like most of the lead has leached out of the old float. It is discolored and looks like much of it is gone, especially compared to the new one. I'll put it in a box on my shelf and fix it someday when I feel frisky.