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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 18 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 18 | I'm trying to get to my rear brakes but can't get the drum off. How do you go about "backing off the brakes"? I see the two slots on the back of the wheel but can't see any screw or anything in there (axel in the way). Also can do this with a regular screw driver? It's a '54 chevy 3/4 ton. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 9 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 9 | It's more like a thumbwheel in there. You may be able to use a screwdriver, but a brake adjustment tool works real well. It's bent just the right way and you can get them at any auto parts store. I can't remember which way to turn it to back off the brakes, but once they are backed off it may take a bit of pounding to get the drum off. I had to tap mine with a heavy mallet before they loosened up. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 408 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 408 | | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 1,158 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 1,158 | Originally posted by wodniw5:
Get A Bigger Hammer And a friend with a comparable hammer. And a couple of big screwdrivers. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 | Locate the slot (oval in shape) towards the bottom center of the brake backing plate. There might even be a plastic or rubber cap over it.
Get the brake tool from the parts store. It has a different angled bend on each end that gives you the leverage and clearence you'll need.
Insert, I think, the angled end into the slot. Lever the brake tool UP. This will bring the shoes in. The thumb wheel is really a multi-pointed star wheel. This is connected to threads that make the brake adjuster grow or contract. This pivots the shoes that are atteched to the backing plate.
Don't be afraid to mess with this awhile. You'll feel the movement. There is a joining spring that acts as a lock stop for the brake adjuster so the wheel won't turn freely, but kind of clicks as it goes around.
When you feel the you can't turn it any more, get a big ended punch or other blunt ended shaft that you can pound with a hammer. Tap this repeatedly all the way around the inside edge of the drum. At some point it will brake lose and begin to slide outwards. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 | Before hammering on the drum, make sure you have removed the two flat-head screws (sometimes camoflaged by junk) that are between the wheel lugs. These screws hold the drum in place when the wheels off. The are not opposite each other, so you may have to hunt for them. I know this applies to all 4 drums on my 49 3/4T. The fronts on the 54 may be attached to the hub/bearings.
Good Luck!
Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice) \'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run. My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787. Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.
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