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#207156 05/05/2006 12:30 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 18
P
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 18
I'm trying to get to my rear brakes but can't get the drum off. How do you go about "backing off the brakes"? I see the two slots on the back of the wheel but can't see any screw or anything in there (axel in the way). Also can do this with a regular screw driver? It's a '54 chevy 3/4 ton.

#207157 05/05/2006 12:50 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 9
J
Apprentice
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 9
It's more like a thumbwheel in there. You may be able to use a screwdriver, but a brake adjustment tool works real well. It's bent just the right way and you can get them at any auto parts store. I can't remember which way to turn it to back off the brakes, but once they are backed off it may take a bit of pounding to get the drum off. I had to tap mine with a heavy mallet before they loosened up.

#207158 05/05/2006 12:57 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 408
W
Shop Shark
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 408
Get A Bigger Hammer

#207159 05/05/2006 3:29 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,158
B
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,158
Quote
Originally posted by wodniw5:
Get A Bigger Hammer
And a friend with a comparable hammer.

And a couple of big screwdrivers.


~#~#~#~#~
1946 Chevrolet 3600 - "Old Number Seven"

Cavalry's Here. Cavalry's a frightened guy with a rock, but it's here.
#207160 05/05/2006 1:15 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
R
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
Locate the slot (oval in shape) towards the bottom center of the brake backing plate. There might even be a plastic or rubber cap over it.
Get the brake tool from the parts store. It has a different angled bend on each end that gives you the leverage and clearence you'll need.
Insert, I think, the angled end into the slot. Lever the brake tool UP. This will bring the shoes in. The thumb wheel is really a multi-pointed star wheel. This is connected to threads that make the brake adjuster grow or contract. This pivots the shoes that are atteched to the backing plate.
Don't be afraid to mess with this awhile. You'll feel the movement. There is a joining spring that acts as a lock stop for the brake adjuster so the wheel won't turn freely, but kind of clicks as it goes around.
When you feel the you can't turn it any more, get a big ended punch or other blunt ended shaft that you can pound with a hammer. Tap this repeatedly all the way around the inside edge of the drum. At some point it will brake lose and begin to slide outwards.

#207161 05/05/2006 1:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 452
H
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Before hammering on the drum, make sure you have removed the two flat-head screws (sometimes camoflaged by junk) that are between the wheel lugs. These screws hold the drum in place when the wheels off. The are not opposite each other, so you may have to hunt for them. I know this applies to all 4 drums on my 49 3/4T. The fronts on the 54 may be attached to the hub/bearings.
Good Luck!


Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice)
\'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run.
My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787.

Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.

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