The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 starter spins UPDATE

Hey guys,
The starter in my 235 dosent engage it just spins. Any suggestions? Can I replace anything on it or do I have to replace the whole unit?
The first time I tried to turn it over it turned the motor over (saw the fan blade moving) and then after that it only spins


Thanks,
Bill

Make sure you have 12 volts to it. If so, then remove the starter and disassemble. Clean or replace brushes if needed. Use wet dry sandpaper to clean up all the magnets and contacts. reassemble and install. I did this with mine and it worked like new. Hope this helps.

If the starter is spinning and not "engaging" wouldn't that be a solenoid problem not a motor problem?

shawn

Thanks Bullnose,
Where did you get the brushes?

Replace the drive gear on the end of the armature. It has an overuning clutch in it that gets worn. The parts are available at any parts store & easy to put on.

I'm assuming it would be called a starter rebuild kit?

They sometimes are available like that but usually come in the individual parts. Tear it down & see what you need. Sometimes the brushes are OK. Check the bushings also. You can take the cap off the selenoid & clean it up. If the main terminal is worn or burnt you can turn it around & use the other side.

The starter drive has already been mentioned, and it's the most likely cause. However, here's a sneaky one that most folks overlook. Check out the shift fork that connects the solenoid plunger to the starter drive. The pivot pin, and/or the two fingers that transmit the movement to the starter drive can get worn to the point that the solenoid switch gets made before the gear engages the flywheel. It's not uncommom to find material welded onto the fingers of the shift fork on a rebuilt starter.
Jerry

No one asked if it's a foot operated mechanical set up or uses a solinoid like PG and V-8 models.

Most have an adjustment on the throw out for the Bendix, check in an old repair manual and it will give you the details.

Chevy doesn't use a Bendix starter,it's an over running clutch drive ,although people call them all Bendix's.A Bendix drive is self engaging,like on old Fords.
If it's a foot operated mechanical linkage,the problem is often lack of enough throw because the cab has sagged on it's mounts.Or the overrunning clutch drive is worn or the gear teeth are history.

Pulled the solenoid off yesterday and found that one of the copper wires (one of the two that are together) was broken. I brought it to work today and I'm going to attempt to solder it. If that doesn't work I'm going to buy a new $30 solenoid from Michel Waltrips store.

This has been fun and educational. I didn’t realize one could do so much work on a starter them selves. All my life (30 years) I have always seen people just shell out money for a new one.
Thanks for the Help guys! If this doesn't work Ill be back! Ill be DARNED if I'm going to buy a new one! Plus the new ones are probably HECHEN IN MEXICO.

Well,
Michel Waltrips starter solenoid worked out great. Now I need to run a remote fuel tank, change the points, distributor cap and prime the fuel line.
By the way... the Solenoid was MADE IN THE USA.

What weight of oil should I use in it? The motor has either 25,000 or 125,000 or 225,000 miles. Looks to me to have been rebuilt at some time.
Should I spray the carb inside with carb cleaner or some sort of other cleaner?

When I had my engine rebuilt a little over a month ago, the rebuilder recommended SAE 30. He said the 235 were not designed with multi-viscosity oils in mind.

Personally, I don't like to spray carb cleaner unless the carb is apart. I know Rochester B's don't have any rubber parts, but later model carbs do. Carb cleaner will attack those rubber parts and turn them to goo. I also don't know what it will do to the leather accelerator pump diaphragm.

Oh, and congrats on finding the solenoid made in USA!