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| | | Forums66 Topics128,012 Posts1,055,317 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 | Hey guys,
I've read the threads about fellow stovebolters blasting & powdercaoting thier frames and chassis and I was wondering if that should be one of the first things on my list of restoring my '66. I've looked under the truck, it has original everything except shocks(pretty old still) & the frame has a good amount of rust. This weekend I was watching Trucks! on spike tv & it made me sick to see all that guy did in one episode, but he started by blasing and restoring frame and suspension. Is this what I should do. My engine runs well enough new brakes were installed before I purchased it. If I do need to , where do i go to get it done. Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks, Nolan | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 343 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 343 | If you are planning on doing a total frame off, then sandblasting and powder coating is the way to go. If you are going to change any of your suspension bweyond a stock replacement part, then you will want do any modifications and mock up the changes to make sur everything fits prior to blasting and poder coating. Look in the phone book for Media Blasting, Sand Blasting or talk to your local restoration shop to see where to go to get it done.
1954 GMC 1/2-ton Longbed 1971 Pontiac LeMans Sport
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | It all depends on what you want to have after you are done. Powder coating is great if you have the money or are building a show truck. If it is a daily driver you are building I would put the extra money into upgrading other components and just have the frame blasted and painted. If you are not going to mirrors on the floor of the garage then how ofter are you going to really see the frame. If paint worked good for the first 39 years of the trucks life why not for the final 39? Ultimately it is up to you and your preference. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 | Originally posted by Houston54: It all depends on what you want to have after you are done. Powder coating is great if you have the money or are building a show truck. If it is a daily driver you are building I would put the extra money into upgrading other components and just have the frame blasted and painted. If you are not going to mirrors on the floor of the garage then how ofter are you going to really see the frame. If paint worked good for the first 39 years of the trucks life why not for the final 39? Ultimately it is up to you and your preference. what he said!
an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 | Nolan, As we speak...er... write, I'm having mine PC'd. I'm down here in Oceanside. It's being done by Electro Tech of San Marcos. Cost= $550. This is for a 52 AD open frame. You know, starting clean and new with the one component that holds everything together will be more than a delight. It will be an inspiration. The driving force to see all these boxes and boxes of stuff that needs to find their way back. To someday look, act and drive like a truck. I think it is worth every penny. Upgrading to other components as Houston said is a great idea, even a necessity. And doing it on a rust free vehicle makes my wallet slide out easier. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 | So frame restoration is a necessity, but powdercoat or paint is up to you $$$? I wan't my truck to look good and run better, but I'm not planning on building a show truck. I just wan't to do what I can to make it handle well and be dependable as a work truck. So would I have to take the body off the frame, or is their places that will do it all?Thanks for all the info guys. Nolan | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 158 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 158 | I figure $350 to have my frame sandblasted and powder coated is CHEAP compared to the time it would take just for me to strip the frame.
I'm building quite a pile of stuff to go with the frame -- cowl support rods, bumper brackets...
Cheers, mark. '51 KY 3100 | | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Frame restoration is not a given if your truck is to be a dependable work truck as you mention. The frame components such as steering and brakes would certainly benefit from a refurb but unless the frame has rot it may be good to go for your needs. A little surface rust is typical. I might suggest getting after it with a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder and then coating it with Zero Rust and their "Crystal Coat". It will dress up the frame and give protection from additional corrosion. These products are available in rattle cans and are very easy to use. If you can restore your truck on the frame then I would do that. These trucks are very easy to pull apart but the re-assembly is where most project fail. If you could provide some pictures of the truck then others can provide their opinions if a frame off is necessary. Many times it is not. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | SC,
The shop I am planning using has a minimum $ they charge. My plan is to get the frame and a bunch of other parts ready for PC..the things I am going to do in PC are the inner fender walls, all the sheet metal behind the grill, and any other parts that I can think of that will be out of site. The exterior will be painted. I did my rims last winter. I love em! They look great with new tires and shiny new hub caps. I wish the rest of my truck looked as nice. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | Zero Rust is great, but I had poor luck with the Crystal Coat, so I wouldn't recommend it. I didn't use it on my frame, just the ZR black and that has worked very well. I used ChasisKote on my 47 jeep frame and I like it even better. Its very hard. I bought it at the Pate swap meet. Not sure where you get it now. I have also used ZR on smaller bits on the jeep. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 | So theres places I can bring my truck fully assembled where there will take it apart, coat, & reassemble carefully? Thanks again for all the help guys.
Nolan | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | My shop wants everything blasted and ready to PC. They will not clean or disassemble anything. If I had to guess, most Powder Coat shops won't do anything but powder coat. If they will, you will pay big $$ for the service. | | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Nolan - If you find a place that will do that for your truck you will have to pay $$ through the nose and other orifices. I may be wrong but it sounds like you may not be aware of the scope of this. Is your truck running at this time? Have you ever done something like this before? If not then you may want to sit back and think the whole thing through and put a plan to paper. Once you do that then you can put $$ to the plan and determine if it is how you want to spend you children's inheritance.  | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 | I figure if I don't powder coat my frame I may as well ignore the rust. If painted it will be rusty in short order anyway unless you don't drive it. Since I first tried powder I've been wishing I could use it for everything. It is wonderful stuff.
Examples:
When I had my spindles coated my man failed to mask the kingpin bearing surfaces. I wore out both arms with a new bastard file before I started to see any metal.
If nowhere else you should use it for your runningboards. I've walked on mine for 2 years and when simply wiped off it looks like fresh wet paint today. One tiny grain of sand on a shoe and a painted board is scratched to the metal. Then rust comes very quickly and you'll regret it was not powder.
Mike Barnes 1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 | Nolan, Just to give you a 'high' end example of the costs associated with taking your truck apart. 'THE' guy in my town (body and paint) wanted $4,000 just to take the body pieces off! That was my motivation. All the way to the ground. I dig photoed every step of the way as well. I'm glad I did. I learned a lot. Could see how things went together. And how bad thinks really were; hiding, lurking, ready to bit my a.. at any time. I've since found another individual who will 'turn-key the body and paint - not charge $100/hr. The re-assembly is still up to me for the drive line. But what a great adventure it will be with everything looking "new"! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 60 | Houston, Yes my truck is running & not only have I never done a frame off restro. before, I've never owned a car. This is my fist vehicle. I dont have the skills or space to take apart the body on my own, so in the meantime I'll move on to oher things and areas where the truck needs some love. Maybe some ZR will do the trick for the time being. Thanks for all the info. as usual guys. Nolan P.S. Rattletrap where are you in soCal? got any suggestions for good autoshop at a fair price? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 158 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 158 | Look around.
My powder coater won't disassemble anything; but their costs include sandblasting before coating.
$350 for a 'typical' frame; other pieces they need to see to estimate.
Will let you know how it turns out... mark. '51 KY 3100 | | |
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