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#19126 06/17/2004 1:27 PM | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 43 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 43 | What is the recommendation for a solvent to use for cleaning brake cylinders for rebulid? "Brakleen" doesn't seem to get it done...
My cylinders have a lot of "varnish" from old brake fulid and junk from deteriorated rubber seals.
What is a good and safe method of cleaning them before final touch-up with the cylinder hone?
Thanks!
Dave | | |
#19127 06/17/2004 1:31 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Dave,
When all else fails and you are only dealing with metal, try lacquer thinner (if it is legally available in your area).
How close are you to West Chester?
Tim | | |
#19128 06/17/2004 4:28 PM | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 43 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 43 | Tim -
Thanks! I 'll get some lacquer thinner.
I am about 10 miles from West Chester, PA.
Know of any good parts stores or Used Parts suppliers?
Thanks!
Dave | | |
#19129 06/17/2004 5:10 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | A word of warning. Lacquer thinner has solvents that are not compatible with DOT3 brake fluid. Be sure to thoroughly clean with either Brakekleen or denatured alcohol (also at the hardware store).
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#19130 06/18/2004 4:05 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | ANY petroleum-based solvent is bad news when it mixes with rubber brake parts, so always do a final flush with alcohol. I'll second the lacquer thinner suggestion, or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, if you can find some. MEK will clean just about anything, including all the oil in any skin it touches, so glove up before using that stuff! It's pretty potent in the fume department, too, so have a fan running if you use it.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#19131 06/18/2004 1:51 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | My question is what is the lubricant that the rebuilders use when putting these things together? My new wheel cylinders had some kind of thin goo that was not brake fluid, coating the inside. This obviously gives them shelf life but I don't think that there is a product like this available off the shelf. | | |
#19132 06/18/2004 2:31 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | For lube use brake fluid. I use a small can and dip the hone in it, then clean the bore and smear some more fluid in it before putting in the pistons. If there are rust grooves, you need to either get new cylinders or get yours re-lined.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#19133 06/18/2004 3:35 PM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 66 | Dave, Have you tried burning the crud out with a torch? It worked for me. The metal expands at a different rate than the crud, and it lets go of it's grip. All that was left was a little carbon residue which wiped out with a dunk in the parts tank, and a wipe with a clean shop towel. | | |
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