The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop The Plugs on my 292 aren't getting gas... Please Help!!!!

Hello Stovebolters,

I have a 1966 Chevy C-10 that is slowly becoming my greatest obsession. lol It has a 292, but oddly enough it isnt getting any gas to the plugs and its not starting. The fuel lines and pump are fine, the carb. is working fine also. I suspected that a few of the cylinders might not have very good compression. I ran a compression test, and was very shocked by the results. Not just one of the cylinders had bad compression, but all of them did. The first cylinder has 0 psi. The next had 40, and there was nothing more than 60 from there on. What could be the most possible cause of this kind of compression? I really dont want to go and start yaking things apart if I dont have to... I would apreciate any ideas or help.

Your plugs not getting gas is not your real big problem at this point in time with compression readings like that. At the lowest I'd want to see at least 90psi + or - 10psi between each one. What type of tester you useing screw in or push in? Is there water in your oil? If there isn't the good news is your blocks not cracked the bad news is it's not just a blown head gasget and your needing at the least rings and a valve job. Whens the last time this engine was running? Did you see it running?
Adios, Kip

Well, there isnt any water in the oil. If the head gasket is badly blown, I seriously dont think there is any coolant in the cylinders because theres not any hydrolock. Of course with compression like 20 psi, I dont think it would matter if there was water in the compression chamber... lol Here is what is confusing me about the whole situaiton. When the engine last stopped running was a few days after it was rebuilt. The history behind the engine is that it was supposed to be the project of my step fathers. He went and had the engine rebuilt and he drove it back to his house. Drove it a day or 2 that week, and then he called me to come over and help him tear the truck apart. He planned on sanding and repainting the frame and just about everything and start back from the begining. Well, he never did this. It just sat in pieces. 5 Years later, he moved and I got ahold of the truck. The engine sat in a garage, covered with canvas for these 5 years, and when it last ran, it ran perfectly. Because of this, I dont understand why there is bearly any compression at all. Even if ALL of the rings where bad, I kind of think there would be a little more compression than there is. And it would be amazing to have all 6 rings break. I have all ideas that I am going to have to do some valve work on it. Thats not that big of a deal. I just dont want to have to remove the pistons and rings, and then find that they where in perfect shape. Is there any way to narrow things down, going as far as keeping the engine in the truck? If there isnt, I have no problem with rebuilding the block. Thats just alot of time and money I could put forth to something else on the truck.(like the wiring. The wiring is horrible lol) Is there any way to see if the rings are bad other than pooring a table spoon of SAE 30 oil in them? (I did that already and it had no effect on the compression)
Also, the compression gauge Im using is the screw in type.

Pull the valve cover and visually inspect the valve train is in working order. And I would use a little more than a tablespoon of 30wt. I'd use several of them, anyway... Sounds like a puzzle.
Good luck... After five years of sitting, you could have ring problems....

Sounds like the rings never seated after the rebuild. Once you get the engine running this should be easy to fix. But, first things first.

Have you looked down the carb throat and pumped the throttle? You should see a shot of gas into the throat. If not, check the fuel pump for flow by removing the fuel line at the carb, then cranking the engine. If a good stream goes into your can or bottle, pull the carb and clean it. If not, check the fuel lines for blockage, be sure the cock on the tank is open, and that fuel flows from the tank. If not on this test, replace the fuel pump.

Have you checked the ignition system? Pull a plug, place it against a ground and crank. Check point gap, rotor and cap for problems. Check and be sure that the #1 cylinder is near tdc when the rotor is pointed at that plug. Be sure your plug wires are routed correctly.

Now, to get some compression. I use 90 weight gear lube. Stick the nozzle in the plug hole and squirt. replace the plugs and try to start.

Once the engine is running, I would recommend draining the oil and putting in John Deere 10w-30 break-in oil. Then go out for a drive and rev the engine, then back off. Continue this several times and your rings should seat.

Well, the fuel system is fine. There is plenty of gas pouring into the intake. If the fuel lines where blocked though, it wouldnt have mattered if they where working because when there wasnt any gas getting to the plugs, I pour some gas down the carb. throught into the manifold. That still never made it to the plugs. The carb. gasket on the manifold was bad, replaced that and now the only thing I can come to conclude it that there isnt enough compression for the gas to be sucked into the combustion chamber. But, Im going to adjust all the valves and make sure thier not sticking and make sure that all the valve probelms are corrected, and Im going to try some of the suggestions people have put on here. I apretiate it and i will let everyone know what happens.

Hi,
Might your camshaft gear have sheared? Is the distributor rotating?

The distributor is rotating fine. The intire ignition system is working perfectly. The ignition timeing is exact, all the plugs are getting a good fat park. The distributor is in perfect condition. I just about a week ago replaced the points because they where alittle worn. As far as the distributor goes, its fine. I dont know if there is a problem with the cam shaft... I kind of doubt it, but its possible. If the valve adjustments dont help any, Im going to just tear it down and rebuild it. I dont really want to have to do that right now because I want to get some other things done to it, but if I comes to it I will. If I do that, then I will know exactly all the details of the engine condition. I just wanted to get some other things done first... Like drive it down the road... lol

Fred
DO NOT USE 90wt oil! :mad: I have seen people hydro lock and bend rods doing that. Fred the 30 wt is a little heavy too.
My shop uses a plastic syringe body and 5-7 cc of trans fluid( see your local drug store usually about a $1). So far there have been no problems in that doseage.
It sounds like a head problem maybe the valves are too tight leaving them partialy open.
I have also had good luck pulling them until they fire for standards
Brsd

Could it be the mice have built a home in the head or intake? They get into everything. Try pulling a plug and hooking up a air hose. Where does the air come out? turn the engine over with air still hooked up, can you get it to come out of the carburator? Joe

Well, I have checked the valve train. Everything is in good order. The valves are opening and closing on time like they are supposed to. So, I am going to assume that its a ring problem. I put oil in the cylinders and Im going to let it sit until tomarrow and maybe if its the rings, it will loosen them and I will have some compression to get it started. If this dont work, Im going to just rip it apart and start a rebuild.