The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Solid-Axle PS Project

Hey, Folks,
Right now, I'm up to my armpits in alligators with a power steering project for my solid-axle '59 Apache. I don't know if anyone is interested in following this or not. If so, perhaps it would behoove you to speak up. Here's what I've learned thus far:
While surfing through an on-line shop manual, I discovered that the GM power steering system for this model was the Saginaw 'linkage' type (sensor valve on drag-link with power ram on cross-link). I quickly realized that this uses exactly the same PS system components (with a slight valve body difference)that C-2 and C-3 Corvettes have, and are thus readily available. In fact, I saw a complete Vette PS system advertised on E-Bay a couple of weeks ago.
I'm currently modifying the drag-link using a '74 Dodge 0ne-ton left-hand-thread tie-rod end (7/8" dia.) and adjuster sleeve to fit the driver's side spindle arm hole. The Vette valve body and cut-down cross-link make up the rear of the drag-link. The power ram will go from the left-hand side of the solid axle over to the right-hand side of the cross link rod just like the original. The PS pump fits on my Chevy 350 block on the driver's side below the alternator. My current bugaboo is threading the Corvette linkage rod (7/8" dia.) with a 7/8 X 18 RH thread die (from Victor Machinery, N.Y.) to fit the '74 Dodge adjuster-sleeve. And, yes, I did graft the Vette pitman arm onto the stock truck pitman arm using a very, very beefy weld.
If anyone is interested, I'll issue further posts. When finished, this should look like the original PS system with no modification to the steering box or wheel.
Regards,
Apache Kid

Hey, Im trying tojust figure out how to put power steering on my 48 the safest and cheepest way.using all the parts i can from my 48 and what everelse i can find at the yard. I heard about a nissan or toyota steering box will mount up to the outside of the frame and work w/ ang GM pump!, any comment? Thanx, Mike

Use a kit from Chevy Duty and a 69-78 Chevrolet truck P/S box on the outside of the frame rail. I used that setup on my 37 and it works like a charm. Later

Dave

Bowtiesr4me (Mike),

For the later-model integral PS steering box (cross-steering) type kit solution (similar to kit used by bowtie70ss) have a look at:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/t1_page4.asp

For the N.O.S. (duplication of original GM linkage power steering) kit solution, have a look at:
http://www.classicperform.com/power1.html
Unfortunately, this kit costs like the devil.

Or, you can fab up your own set-up as I did. I realize that things I find interesting can be scary to others, but then I’m used to engineering innovation. If that isn’t your cup of tea, then I suggest you stick to somebody’s engineered (and tested) kit. Briefly, let’s talk about using a rebuilt later-model PS box, but in drag-link (not cross-steering) mode. First, you need to determine which way the pitman-arm and drag-link move when the steering wheel is turned clockwise (right turn). If it’s like mine, the pitman arm rotates counter-clockwise thus moving the drag-link rearward for a right turn. When the steering wheel turns clockwise but the pitman arm rotates counter-clockwise, this is known as ‘reverse-rotation.’ Most of the PS boxes you’ll find are ‘standard-rotation’ but exceptions do exist. I found that the ’78 Dodge trucks used both standard and reverse rotation PS boxes (and the reverse-rotation boxes seem to have very low core charges for some reason).

A later-model PS box will usually have to be turned 90 degrees in order to have the pitman arm in the horizontal plane, as with a stock steering box. This means fabbing up a bracket of some sort to accept the new PS box’s bolt-holes. Yeah, it can be a pain-in-the-butt – and you have to go with a later-model steering column and a rag-joint (another pain-in-the-butt). I have seen on E-Bay brackets to adapt a Toyota PS box to a frame-rail for drag-link steering. You might want to check that out.

I ordered the cross-steering PS kit from Chevy Duty, but sent it back after considering all that has to be done and how it affects the steering geometry. I prefer to stick with drag-link geometry for a solid axle. I’m not saying not to use this kit – just be careful if you do and follow the directions explicitly. The remaining choice is to fab up your own original type GM Saginaw mid-50s ‘linkage’ power steering system as I did using C-2 or C-3 Corvette components. I like it because I don’t have to install a new steering box or steering column, nor do I have to change the steering geometry – it’s still a drag-link system just like the original GM design . . . but it’s still a pain-in-the-butt.

Now (foolishly perhaps) I’m going to comment on welding of steering components. Having read all the epithets and put-downs from the ‘shortened steering column’ thread, I really don’t need to hear all the ranting on the subject of welded components. Frankly, these guys screaming about the evils of welding sound to me like a bunch of little old ladies decrying the evils of smokin’ and drinkin’. If we could get past who’s the greatest welder on the continent, I’d like to offer a few comments on the subject as applies to pitman arms (I’ll have to use some of the engineer talk that nobody likes, so please excuse me). Structurally speaking, a pitman arm is a cantilevered beam subject to a point load. The formula for the bending load on a cantilvered bending load is ‘PxL.’ Divide the bending load by the bending allowable (for mild steel you can use 22 ksi) to get the required Section Modulus (a structural quality that measures resistance to bending). Cutting to the chase, if you do the math you’ll find that the Section Modulus requirements for a pitman arm are relatively low, particularly if power steering is employed. A really good weld, helped out by the arm being sandwiched between a couple of steel plates welded on, will deliver a Section Modulus many times the requirement. And, yes, Magnafluxing and stress-relieving are always wise. One more thing – never splice two pitman arms together using a straight cut. This allows shear stresses to accumulate along the straight weld-line under torque. Using male and female ‘Vs’ cut into the meeting places of the two pitman arms will keep shear forces from bearing on the entire length of the weld-line.

Sorry for being so verbose, but I hope this helps you in making a choice. Know what you’re doing and use qualified people, and you should be alright. If you don’t know what you’re doing, please don’t take any chances with your own safety or the safety of others sharing the road – use an engineered kit . . . or stick with the stock steering. You'll have Pop-Eye arms in no time.

Regards,

Apache

Thanx Apache,I think eating spinich is easier to take in and just stick with my stock steering. Mike

Thank you 2 bowtie70ss, Ill also look into that kit. Mike

73 to 80 chevy c-10 steering box mounted in front of the axle you will need to turn the pit man arm approx.1/4 turn so you can line up on the stock steering knuckle then fabricate a drag link i have seen several trucks with this set up and it works really well and these steering boxes are readily available

I'm going to jump in here and suggest a different way to weld a pitman arm or any other two pieces of steel that are being mated together that was taught me by a gentleman who welded from one end to the other of the Alaskan Pipeline.

He suggests that you mate the pieces together male to male (not trying to be smart here) and begin to fill the welded with a small dose of weld, than grind to remove slag, weld, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, etc. until you have "over welded" the piece than grind to finished size.

It's the closest to original steel as you can get.

Joe

:rolleyes:
Just to be clear, male to male is ><.

Hey v6jimmy Thanx for the info. Goin 2 tha yard this weekend hope to find just such a box..Thanx again , Mike

Another thing to note about welding a pitman arm is that it is cast steel. While it is a similer material the cristlan stricture (?SP?) is different and therefore the origional cast material will have different expansion rates when heated. The problem with this is than when the weld and cast portions of your part cool they will shrink at different rates and want to develope cracks.

The easyest way to prevent cracks is to pre and post heat the part with a tourch. Then force the part to cool very slowly. I usualy wrap parts with some scrap foil lined firewall insulation and then pile on a bunch of closed cell foam.